Childish Haphazard. Molly Goddard SS16

molly-goddard-spring-2016-001

She left her M.A. course at Central Saint Martins, where she’d studied under the late professor Louise Wilson, a year early to focus on putting together the spring 2015 collection. Her hope was that it would help her get a job. While she always wanted to have her own label, she assumed she’d work for someone else first. However, her real dream came true. Molly Goddard is one of the most exciting and fresh talents from London due to her secret weapon – the super cute, sheer tulle dresses. Inspired by the frilly outfits her mother and grandmother made for her as a child, Goddard gets her ideas from old family photographs and children’s knitwear patterns, and visiting Portobello Market, Alfies Antiques and the Retro Clothing Exchange in Notting Hill Gate. Her spring-summer 2016 presentation had some naive, hand embroidered skirts, checked crop-tops and of course, the signature pink dress which looks great with denim trousers or with nothing under. The chaotic and childish haphazard of putting clothes together is also the thing that makes Molly’s label so… enchanting. “At that age, you don’t even care what you’re wearing—and that’s quite a nice thing,” she says. “You’re wearing a big dress, then you put on your mum’s shoes and then you put your favorite T-shirt on top. When my sister was born—she’s three years younger than me—I used to wear all her clothes. When I was three, or older, I was wearing these tiny little dresses with my entire bum slipping out the bottom. I was just obsessed.”

molly-goddard-spring-2016-006

molly-goddard-spring-2016-009

molly-goddard-spring-2016-012

molly-goddard-spring-2016-003

Colorful Volumes. Marques Almeida AW15

MARC0105

Marques Almeida is super cute this season. The rising-star label shows off with their signature denim, but also brings a lot of new “things” – bright knitted dresses, brocade and fur (possibly faux) and polished leather accessories. Models marched to the no-nonsense sounds of Bjork’s 1995 “Army of Me”, their hair hanging in undone grungy locks. The attitude reminded me of Corinne Day’s photography from the 90’s, “It was a lot about those shoots where you would have these really expensive garments with a wrecked sofa” said Paulo Almeida. The final result? A very #funkyoffish collection. It’s cute and it definitely stole the hearts of London fashionistas.

MARC0139

1111521

MARC0295

MARC0306

1111526

MARC0392

MARC0512

MARC0587

Drama at it’s Best. Giles AW15

GIL_0060

Drama is the thing this season, that’s sure. After Marc Jacobs (the heavy Diana Vreeland boheme), Thomas Tait (elusive horror mood) and Thom Browne (a 19th century hospital vs. mafioso funeral), Giles Deacon shows us that a fashion show is not only a stiff presentation of clothes – it’s a performance. It’s a stage for actors – models – showing emotions through their walk and clothes. And in this statement, I would like to highlight Giles drama the most. The show was just extraordinary – Edie Campbell wore a latex Victorian blazer; Stella Lucia had a pink ribbon tied around her chiffon turtleneck – dress; Anna Cleveland, the star of this show, simply danced in a twirling organza gown. All girls had black lips and something ultra-vivid about them – maybe it’s Katie Grand’s styling? Or the old-fashioned beauty of British fashion shows? I can’t explain. But I am truly seduced by Giles for fall.

1111301

1111311

GIL_0094

GIL_0126

GIL_0240

GIL_0288

GIL_0362

GIL_0436

GIL_0510

GIL_0548

Suspiria and Him. Thomas Tait AW15

TAI_0107

Do you know the horror movie called Suspiria? If yes, then you totally will understand this eerie and disturbing Thomas Tait collection. Latex gloves, wide pantalons, leather skirts and bloody red cowboy jackets. The invitation’s still from Dario Argento’s 1977 horror masterpiece Suspiria was echoed on pleated dresses – changed into digital print for Tait, made from screen captures done on his laptop while watching films in bed. “They’re kind of really shitty and a lazy way of doing some kind of informal research. I thought it would be really interesting to make these highly intricate garments and undercut them with a crap image from the film I love.” The dramatic venue and the music – created by Frederic Sanchez – matched the melancholic, slightly violent mood. Summing up – the collection is very, very interesting and… elusive?

Winning LVMH’s Young Fashion Designer prize last year has meant a huge difference to Thomas Tait, who like many young designers struggled with keeping the business working – not becaues of lack of ideas, but funds. “The money kept me from going out of business to be honest,” he said. And that’s pretty much a very happy ending for Thomas (in case of sponsoring), and hopefully it will be one for other money-struggling designers.

TAI_0147

TAI_0213

TAI_0365

TAI_0437

TAI_0609

TAI_0645

TAI_0661

Modern Boudoir. Christopher Kane AW15

zKIM_0051

For Christopher Kane, February is the month of buzz. The AW15  collection presented during #LFW was accompanied with the opening of his first ever flagship store in London, on Mount Street. The store looks sleek and modern – the interior reflects the aesthetic of the brand and clothes. But coming back to the collection – we are talking about sex in here. The opening look – a seductive velvet suite. Then, the game changed it’s manner into fluid-like organza and hand-made embroidery. Lastly, Chris brough an orgy of hand-appliqued illustrations of naked women and men… literally, having fun. Seeing the model Alexandra Elizabeth having a polygamic relationship on her body made everybody feel puzzled and a bit concerned. Not that I oppose this type of relationship, but… which women would want to wear a dress representing such, uhm, event? That’s a topic which must be discussed.

Christopher-Kane-Store-1-Gilbert_McCarragher-Vogue-19Feb15-pr_b_810x540

KIM_0048

KIM_0455

KIM_0567

KIM_0733

KIM_0930

KIM_0989

zKIM_0038