From all London Fashion Week designer, Mrs. Simone Rocha created the most interesting and signature collection for AW14. Noting, that each season she recreates her classical ballerina dress, the AW14 had a royal makeover- Scottish checks; golden elements embroidered on collars and sleeves; mink fur; yellow snake leather on bags and skirts. And all kept in pretty quiet, but ‘strong way, just like all Rocha collections to date. What I loved was her impressive approach to British monarchy- the pieces felt queen-ie, but not to a degree of little, pink princess. Although, some colour doze was applied here (the pink shade is absolutely lovely)! Love it.
LFW
Jay-Z. Tom Ford AW14
“I don’t pop molly, I rock Tom Ford” is on Jay-Z’s tune that is simply titled Tom Ford. The master of sexy clothing for women have presented his glamorous and genius collection for AW14… mostly in black & red. With beautiul models like Stella Tennant, the maxi gowns, sleek dresses, fur coats and Geoffrey Beene isnpired sequin blouses are made not only for a gala moment- it’s made for everyday use. And this is certainly not Tom Ford, which designed heels higher than anybody else. But the collection, which is totally sewn on Beyonce, is impressive… and fun.
Baroque. Erdem AW14
Only Erdem Moralioglu can make brocade trousers in bordeaux colour look so light and girlie. The inspiration for Erdem’s AW14 tumbled out on the runway: here, botanical prints; there, the necklines found in Velasquez paintings. As the designer said, he wanted to bring all the ideas together, into one show, unfinished. And that was a good move- the clothes felt very glorious, but at the same time not full of pretence, noting the amount of dark brocade and gold elements. Definitely, this is one of the best collections to date from this season’s London Fashion Week.
Craft. Burberry AW14
What a lovely collection was that… it was like a 5 o’clock tea. Like a British picnic in Kensington Gardens. Like… Burberry. Every item in the Burberry’s Monday show was somehow painted- from the bags to shaved coats and flawless 70’s dresses. That handmade work was continued to be used on the shoes and even the throws that had models initials on the last looks. It was a romantic vision of nature and flowers in English country garden. The clothes were gentle and loose… And lets just note who stole the model moment this time: Edie Campbell, Suki Waterhouse, Cara Delevigne and Jourdan Dunn!
Lively. Roksanda Ilincic AW14
Roksanda Ilincic to a surprise of mine, created a great collection. Really. The show’s colorful, popping patchworks whether it was inserts in long felt skirts or the clear plastic squares that decorated dresses to close the show. Then a added metallic, wide belts for an industrial feel, and a lovely geometrical dress with beautiful coat was created. The deconstructed silhouettes, bright with color blocking had an artistic flair, not least when furs appeared on the runway in a radiant version. With roots in evening wear and artsy attitude- Ilincic outstood herself for this season.
Design & Culture by Ed 