I See Colours. Roksanda SS15

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I am obsessed with Roksanda’s SS15! It’s so bold, vibrant, colourful! Simply amazing. Roksanda Ilincic overdid herself this year, creating her first store in London, changing the label’s name into Roksanda and making her brand a real thing. For summer, as you might already see through my enthusiasm, we’ve got geometry and colourful radiance. Lilac, mint, rose, sherbet, fire orange, and royal blue all had somewhat of a neon tint. This contributed to the collection’s sporty edge, which was enhanced by matching flat sandals and geometric heels designed in collaboration with Nicholas Kirkwood. Also of note were Ilincic’s closing looks: sheer organza dresses embellished with squiggly lines that were one part Jackson Pollock, one part Silly String. Ilincic referred to the velvety embroidery as “eyelashes.” It evoked pipe cleaners. But either way, the result was marvelous. Art by Patrick Caulfield.

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Take a Bow. Jonathan Saunders SS15

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I like that, Jonathan! This season is possibly the most strong to date for this British designer. In his files, he’d come across a piece of cotton voile from a Japanese mill as light—and pliable—as paper. The possibility of combining the two inspired a striking effect: paper saturated with blue, impressed on fabric, like artisanal color-blocking. “It’s about process,” master printmaker Saunders explained. He wanted lightness. He got it.The show was really about beautiful lightness, ruffles and ribbons. This fragile yet very dynamic collection had also a beautiful shade of blue in it at the end. It felt elusive and fresh. And, in comparison with last season, it was much better!

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New Woman. J.W. Anderson SS15

IMG_7637.JPGWow. Jonathan Anderson really shocked everybody during his SS15 show. Like, really. And definitely the master of modern adrogeny takes us to a new level of femininity. Me, being slightly bored with Anderson’s minimal, sharp tunics and dresses, thic tres chic (yes, CHIC, at J.W. Anderson) brought something controversial and interesting. With a lot of leather and giving a leg, the whole collection was “hid” under huge, black hats… That was a really beautiful, lady-like moment. Also, the jewellery was good… Wooden buckles and puzzle necklaces are major. Although I am not always a fan of J.W. Anderson collection (like for example last season), I always feel something new will be presented… Is Jonathan the Phoebe Philo of London? Think so. By the way, happy birthday Jonathan Anderson! It’s your 30! And- well- you did yourself a really good present!

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Relaxed Way. Barbara Casasola SS15

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Barabara Casasola is the hottest name coming from Brazil, making the start of London Fashion Week relaxed and sexy. For summer, the designer used shades of warm grey, khaki and orange, to put together a sensual line-up.The pencil skirts and tops were slim, but at the same time warn in a slouch way; the closing look, so the tank-top worn with pleated trousers (they too good), was also an easy way to show the warm feminine side. Casasola is on the boundary of simple dressing and provocative sensuality- and we really like it! We’ve got our eyes on this emerging designer!

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Queen. Simone Rocha AW14

Slide09From all London Fashion Week designer, Mrs. Simone Rocha created the most interesting and signature collection for AW14. Noting, that each season she recreates her classical ballerina dress, the AW14 had a royal makeover- Scottish checks; golden elements embroidered on collars and sleeves; mink fur; yellow snake leather on bags and skirts. And all kept in pretty quiet, but ‘strong way, just like all Rocha collections to date. What I loved was her impressive approach to British monarchy- the pieces felt queen-ie, but not to a degree of little, pink princess. Although, some colour doze was applied here (the pink shade is absolutely lovely)! Love it.
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