Craig Green‘s “unwrapped” collection, which was presented few hours ago in London, is a good start to the autumn-winter 2016 season for men. The first looks were all about olive-green outerwear and khaki combats; then, the wardrobe of a Craig Green guy showed it’s real inner-self, which was previously obscured under layers, and layers of utilitarian-like textiles. The clothes, which were made of leather patches transformed into poetic, voluminous jackets, airy tops and over-sized culottes – and all of that appeared to be tied up with white ropes. It’s interesting to see, how a young designer from London reinterprets menswear – and as you see, this collection is unusual not only because it lacks the “men clichés”, but it also represents Craig as a designer who can smartly push his creative vision.
“Nottingham, in the U.K.’s Midlands, was once the center of the world’s lace production. Now, there’s a sleeping giant waiting for Christopher Bailey to give it a good poke!” as wrote the Style.com about this very, very good collection of Burberry for SS14. Indeed, the use of British lace in this collection was a right shot from Christopher Bailey- lets say goodbye to sporty jackets, and welcome new Burberry, that is all about feminity and glamour! First of all, Harry Styles of One Direction was there in the front row, so he of course stole all spotlight… but because I don’t like 1D, I more feel like to write about the collection… Kept in pastel colours of pink and blue, beautiful laces mixed with embroideries and geometrical prints brought lots of sex appeal to the collection, and at the same time made it wearable… The look were Edie Campbell wears this blue pastel coat, a white lace dress and blue panties looked adorable! That was definitely one of the strongest collections of the season!
Here are my favourite photographs taken by Tommy Ton during London Fashion Week! One thing is sure- the Celine pre-fall 2013 collection was most worn. Christina Cantanera went on full splendour and even wore one whole look from Celine AW13 collection with all these adorable blue/white/red checks! Givenchy was there as always, but what I loved most was… yeah, the Acne sweatshirts, but also the Giles X Sibling knitted hat that model Marie Poviesan wore! It looked so cool! Maybe the LFW street style wasn’t so spectacular as NYFW, but still it was good.
The new collection from London’s hottest new talents, Simone Rocha, is a remastered Coco Chanel look mixed with Film Noir aesthetics and Marilyn Monroe girlie looks- in other words, the element that was everywhere at Rocha’s SS14 collection? Pearls. Pearls everywhere! On dresses, trousers pockets, bags, shoes… Simone Rocha sewed them even on her classical dress with a lace ruffle! This is possibly the strongest collection of John Rocha’s daughter to date with it’s mature touches like elegant mini evening dresses with pearl collars and fantastic tomboy shoes… But it still was very Rocha- not too girlie and not too sophisticated- in other words, super comfortable and easy to wear!
Tom Ford collections are always known for their emulating sexiness and luxurious approach that’s always cool to see just two times a year! So. Ford of course did a great job for his SS14. How can a master of fashion do a bad collection? From the brown leather skirts to crystallised jumpsuit I simply loved everything! Tommy as always takes us to next level of fashion in RTW- in other words, it could would look same if it wasn’t a Ready-To-Wear collection, but a Haute Couture! Mr. Tom is not limiting ideas, and that’s good- because really, who would create this blue jumpsuit with crystals? It is so modern, even cosmic, but at the same time super chic and… SEXY!
SS14 for Erdem meant much more than a large dose of bikinis and girlie dresses- it was all about serious British couture but is strongly visible on these dresses! That was an awesome collection. Erdem, the one that always masters the floral prints each season, went further, and created this- a beautiful collection for princesses. Embroideries, laces, feathers, silk… Everything that was kept in black & white and delicate shades of yellow. The collection (just like Marc Jacobs) broke all the so far created rules for the season… Making a totally new one. And I would call it- Urban Couture!
“Making flowers look new is not easy. Kane did so by dissecting the blooms’s decorative potential, quite literally. Petals were singled out as large-scale ergonomic cutouts traced in shiny patent that gave a graphic, pop effect to clean silhouettes in pastel solids and engineered lace” declared WWD after SS14 collection by Christopher Kane. Shortly: I LOVE IT TOO BAD. BEST, BEST, BEST! Everything was so amazing in this presentation. These laser cuts on dresses in flower patterns, the sweatshirts with flower cross-sections taken from Biology book, this high-tech made dresses and tops in spectrum colours. The flower biological anatomy was the key of the collection- I never thaught boring Biology lessons can be so inspiring! The emboidered petals, stems, anthers and stigmas looked fantastic on all closing dresses… and the “iron” droplets topic? Oh my, simply fantastic. Everything in this collection is so perfect and cool- why not- Christopher Kane is a real fashion genius, and I am happy Kering Group didn’t kill his spirit! Christopher Kane SS14 rules!
SS14 for Roksanda Ilincic meant only one thing- art. This collection was really suprisingly good- all these yellow colours, geometrical patterns- just like if taken out of one of the Mondrian paintings! Roksnda again mixes volume in that superb collection with over-large jackets and flowless printed skirts. Surely, this was one of better things Roksanda did for few seasons- this was so refreshing and nice! All these colourful stripes and awesome embroideries are kind of new to Ilincic- after many seasons of same, boring dresses with over sized sleeves started to be a bit too monotone… But this time Roksanda Ilincic impressed me for Summer!
This was really a Summer of love for the SS14 Jonathan Saunders collection. This British designer had a mind-blowing rhapsody of colour, flowers and patterns in his best to date collection. I simply fell in love with everything from this collection- the shirts with transparent florals, the rodeo inspired jackets, flowless dresses for every Summer night out, and the shoes… The colours were typical for Saunders- his classical bordeaux and the blue neons. After seining this collection, I just want to say I miss Summer too bad…