Dandy’s Wake-up Call. Dunhill AW24

February 18, 2024February 17, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

At Dunhill, an unexpected surprise: the British dandy’s wardrobe gets a refreshment. Simon Holloway‘s debut collection felt like a much-needed wake-up call for this sleepy, London-based brand. The salon-inspired show unfolded at the National Portrait Gallery, transforming it into an elegant, cozy setting reminiscent of a chic café. As a swarm of very fine models emerged, the collection emanated a decidedly classic feel. This setting aptly matched the preppy mood that permeated the garments that felt quintessentially Dunhill. But with a closer look, a majority of pieces were lightweight, and the purposefully mismatched details within the prints and textures felt more modern than was first apparent. There were suits upon suits: two-piece cashmere wool sets here, fabulously cut Donegal tweed three-piece concoctions there. Reinventing the car coat, a nod to house founder Alfred Dunhill’s heritage, the outerwear range varied from camel hair with leather accents to premium double-faced wool. When asked about his intentions in translating Dunhill’s 130-year legacy to a contemporary London audience, Holloway’s response was assured: “There are menswear enthusiasts here, some of whom, particularly older generations, may know Dunhill from the past. But I do think there’s a younger audience obsessed with tailoring and proper menswear haberdashery – it’s a lovely thing to be able to connect with them here, too.”

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Exuberance. Erdem AW24

February 18, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Erdem Moralıoğlu is at his best when he leaves behind his comfort zone of florals and regality. In the halls of the British Museum, amidst the ancient grandeur of the Parthenon Marbles, a modern muse was reborn through imagination of the designer. As the autumn-winter 2024 fashion show progressed, a vivid homage to the American-Greek soprano Maria Callas and her iconic debut as Medea at La Scala in Milan unfolded. From the pea-green opera coat with its extravagantly exaggerated collar at the start to the same silhouette at the finale, this time strewn with a rose print on white satin, but quilted, almost like the memory of a 1950s housecoat, this certainly was an exuberant Erdem moment. In between we had the designer’s extended tribute to Callas, her greatness, her status, and style “almost as a pop idol of the ’50s,” as he put it. The complex psychologies of extraordinary women of the past have always been the fuel for Moralioglu’s layered design approach; the plots always blending into his own design narrative: a romantic, flowered, maybe raw-edged recasting of formal social-occasion dress codes. Callas’ wardrobe – the tiny-waisted, full-skirted dresses; draped scarf necklines; swing coats – were in full force. Carmine red dresses, roses attached to the toes of slingbacks, as if thrown at her feet onstage, and then satin pajamas and shoes evoking marabou slippers were yet another hints we are looking at a modern-day interpretation of a legend’s wardrobe.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Tulle Things. Molly Goddard AW24

February 17, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Molly Goddard‘s design language, consisting of signature tulle and romantic, magpie aesthetic, takes a beautiful, somewhat experimental turn for autumn-winter 2024. The play of volumes makes you think of the sensational Junya Watanabe’s 2000 “Techno Couture“ collection which was all about exaggerated, honeycomb ruffs inspired with European portraiture of nobility. Like some extraordinary dolls wrapped in layers and layers of tulle, the Goddard models could easily appear on the set of Yorgos Lanthimos’ “Poor Things“. Then there were all these charming cowgirl motifs, like embroidered roses on collars and full-skirts covered in XXL polka-dots, kept in a vivacious color palette taken straight out of a Pedro Almodovar film. Not every designer could pull off such portion of eclecticism and make it all look somehow consistent. But Molly Goddard is a creative who finds method in the madness.

Need a quick Molly Goddard fix in your wardrobe?

ED’s SELECTION:

Nico Cropped Two-tone Pointelle-knit Wool Cardigan

Selene Gathered Metallic Lamé Mini Dress

Phoebe Tiered Cotton Mini Dress

Sonia Jacquard-knit Cotton Cardigan

Lisa One-shoulder Ruffled Tulle Top

Dexa Off-the-shoulder Ruffled Neon Tulle Gown

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Men’s – Incense In The Air. John Alexander Skelton AW24

January 12, 2024January 17, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

In London, (the unofficial) Men’s Fashion Week couldn’t begin in a more astounding, ecclesiastically-euphoric way. At St. Bartholomew the Great, London’s oldest parish church, with air heavy with incense, John Alexander Skelton had his triumphant return to the runway. For autumn-winter 2024, the designer -took inspiration from the gothic aesthetic and intangible emotions that This Mortal Coil, an ’80s dream pop collective, elicited. “It’s my emotional response to the music“, he said. That took shape in romantic longline coats, tailored suiting, knitwear and shirting, with Skelton’s signature horn buttons dotted throughout, and sported by stately models clutching lit candles in hand. Regal, but chic; mystical, but not whimsy.

Inky blacks composed the majority of this season’s palette, a choice Skelton attributed to examining 15th-century portraiture in which wearing black was “generally thought of as a power symbol,” he explained. It was contrasted with a drop of blood-red ruby, which took the form of meaty velvets. While John Alexander Skelton is often inclined to spin a rich and theatrical yarn around his collections, the essence of his appeal lies in the clothes themselves – just hold one of his shirts or tailored trousers in your hands, and the extraordinary craftsmanship and timeless textiles look and feel just as arresting as any of his runway spectacles.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Handsome Femininity. Victoria Beckham Pre-Fall 2024

December 11, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

“I like to put a bit of myself into my collections,” says Victoria Beckham. For pre-fall 2024, the designer followed the threads of the semi-autobiographical mainline show she put on in Paris: ideas stemming from the weekend country-life she lives these days on the one hand, and from her ballet-mad girlhood on the other. The collection informed both, her knack for styling – as usual – and by her empathy for making clothes that are actually useful. The contemporary-dance influence flows through her series of long, fluid dresses. Some have cutout necklines with wired curliqued inserts. What’s newer, but also well-established by now, is Beckham’s reputation for tailoring. That’s the side she refers to as “handsome feminity” in this collection – meaning the look of British heritage tweeds and preppy peacoats, styled together with turtlenecks, shirts, and cropped flares, or casualized with cargo pants or various permutations of denim pieces. She has a well-judged way of making these templates interesting as well as simple to wear.