Girls Wanna Have Fun. Molly Goddard SS18

September 18, 2017September 18, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s a season of happiness, that’s a sure thing, and you may like it or not. Molly Goddard, who’s devoted to ‘happiness’ since her London fashion week debut, is fully in the game. Edie Campbell with a glass of champagne in one hand and an e-cigarette in the other was the first sign that it’s gonna be fun. The models were spiralling and dancing down the runway, not walking. Well, who wouldn’t want to loose themselves to dance in one of Goddard’s signature tulle dresses? To a surprise of many, though, tulle wasn’t the season’s hero for Molly. And it’s great to see that the designer can pull off a brilliant collection, while emerging into new fields. Smocking jackets; modern day dame ball-gowns; layers of shiny embroidery over frocks; heavy boots worn with the lightest pieces. Those ‘ladies’ have balls. They might go to a Prince Charming’s palace and leave for a pub with pals (maybe Chavs, even?). Erin O’Connor, who closed the show wearing a loosely-fitted skirt underneath a dress, was yet another sign: British fashion, today’s or yesterday’s, adores Goddard and her girl.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Humanly. JW Anderson SS18

September 18, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Big changes were foreshadowed at J.W. Anderson‘s spring-summer 2018 collection minutes before the show kicked-off. No claustrophobic corridor venue, but a circular runway with an art installation in the heart of it. The clothes’ aesthetic was far different, too. Criss-cross bungee cord and textured linens gave the collection a… leisure-y attitude. Wait, leisure at J.W. Anderson, where it’s always about the explosion of off-beat references, complexity and radiant colours? Yes, that’s happening. Kitchen implements on the catwalk and tablecloth-inspired homespun textiles with the brand’s logo – that was Jonathan Anderson‘s appreciation of ‘at home’ feeling, where everything is intimate and close to your comfort zone. Quite unexpected from a designer, who is known for twisting, collaging and reshaping ideas of fashion, always in a hurry. Just like in case of his last, very laid-back fashion show for men that we’ve seen at Pitti Uomo, Anderson takes a break and wants to clear his (and yours) busy mindset. “Media makes us hysterical. We have to go back to what we know to be humanly grounded,” the designer noted backstage of his show. If you’re still unsure or uneasy with realising Anderson’s new, ‘domesticated’ direction, the Hessian-topped espadrille boots that bottomed nearly every look will get you grounded for summers to come. Or the loose mint-green dress. To my own surprise, I’m really seeing Anderson’s clothes somewhere on a beach or in a well-kept garden of a, let’s say, art-curator (who simply needs to chill sometimes, too).

Collage by Edward Kanarecki

Post-Apocalyptic. Dilara Findikoglu AW17

April 7, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Wether you’re thinking of a Bulgakovian witch sabbath at the top of the hill or of a medieval painting presenting hell full of sinners, Dilara Findikoglu‘s show-stopping garments certainly are for very bad, bad girls (and above all, for red-haired femme fatales à la the designer herself). For her autumn-winter 2017 collection, the Turkish designer went for anything that felt rebellious and bizarrely out-of-this-world at the same time. A tattered, worn-out-looking tartan coat held together by safety pins was a clear nod to punk; witchy symbolism and mystic illustrations present in embroideries covered Tudor-esque capes and semi-armors. Although Dilara has a soft spot for historic costumes – and especially their exaggerated silhouettes – she’s not interested in making glossy couture. Findikoglu rather sees her “new world order” clothes on a Marilyn Manson bride and bold characters, who are tempted by her truly unique aura. The models, transformed into fantastical female goddesses with horns and other charming oddities, looked as if they came out of a Hieronymus Bosch canvas. Exceptional.

Collage: Edward Kanarecki for Design & Culture by Ed. Images: Fernando Uceda / Lucie Rox / courtesy of Dilara Findikoglu.

Floral Work. Christopher Kane AW17

February 22, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Florals aren’t ‘ground-breaking’ for spring, that’s for sure – but for winter, indeed, they are. London-based designers are in the full bloom this season, from Erdem to Pringle of Scotland. Christopher Kane is also a sucker for flora, which is impossible not to spot in his latest collection. Whether in form of traditional damask coming from Gainsborough Silks (rather used for haute-tapestry, than in coats and skirts) or meticulously embellished 3-D flowers sticking out off the dresses, Kane’s girl will bring brightness to the room. But the collection wasn’t only about florals. There was this cosmic element in it, whether we’re talking of space-ship prints, futuristic handbags or fluorescent knit. Christopher Kane’s collections always feel like a collage, but in motion. Some elements appear out of nowhere, like the genius sponge-stripped heels or romantic white lace.

Knitted Needs. Pringle of Scotland AW17

February 21, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Fran Stringer, the creative director of Pringle of Scotland, nails it with every season. The designer has found the perfect balance between the brand’s knit legacy and the wardrobe of a contemporary woman, through incorporating top-notch craftsmanship and timeless silhouettes. Her pre-fall collection was a statement about long, knitted dresses, while for autumn-winter 2017 she continues to experiment with this signature. First looks were the flowing, total-black ensembles, while the last (worn by Adwoa Aboah, above) went crazy floral. If you’re already thinking about buying this ready-to-flatter investment piece – Pringle is the go-to brand.