Modern Boudoir. Christopher Kane AW15

February 25, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

For Christopher Kane, February is the month of buzz. The AW15 collection presented during #LFW was accompanied with the opening of his first ever flagship store in London, on Mount Street. The store looks sleek and modern – the interior reflects the aesthetic of the brand and clothes. But coming back to the collection – we are talking about sex in here. The opening look – a seductive velvet suite. Then, the game changed it’s manner into fluid-like organza and hand-made embroidery. Lastly, Chris brough an orgy of hand-appliqued illustrations of naked women and men… literally, having fun. Seeing the model Alexandra Elizabeth having a polygamic relationship on her body made everybody feel puzzled and a bit concerned. Not that I oppose this type of relationship, but… which women would want to wear a dress representing such, uhm, event? That’s a topic which must be discussed.

Sophisticated. Barbara Casasola AW15

February 25, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Bringing on the Latin American heat and temper, Barbara Casasola shows a sophisticated side of her aesthetics. Black turtlenecks styled with flared skirts and black ballerinas (or yellow, if you want to cheer it up). The pleating was the spotlight this season—a touch Miyake-esque, but Casasola put her own signature spin on that look. And her showpiece efforts featuring multicolored silk fringe simultaneously contrasted with the pleats theme and carried the collection’s symbolic weight. The fringe appeared as if they were doing a little dance in celebration.

British Rose. Erdem AW15

February 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Beautifully embroidered dresses styled with horse-riding boots? Definitely yes. That’s a cool masculine touch in a very feminine area. And it really makes the whole look great and not so banal. This season, the British “Valentino-aspiring” designer, Erdem Moralioglu, brings British aristocrat’s daughter to the world of hunting and romance, giving her not only fancy floral dresses, but croco-patent boots. She shows a bit of nipples, she exposes her shoulders. The new character of Erdem’s woman is curious and intriguing… and she’s not scared of covering a magnificently embroidered skirt with a burgundy turtleneck.

The Bitter Tears of Petra Von Kant. Roksanda AW15

February 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Inspired with lesbian psychodrama The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant, Roksanda broke the system with her refreshing and bold collection. Roksanda Ilincic went layers and fur, keeping in mind natural fabrics like wool. The silhouette was belted and the dresses had warm turtlenecks worn under; the film which inspired Roksanda strongly reflected the current mood of the AW15 line – very feminine, ultra-dramatic and colourful, just like the set of the drama. As the previous collections by Roksanda were very optimistic, this one brings on melancholy and irony… not that I am a pesymistic person, but this direction matches Roksanda’s aesthetics much clearer to me.

70’s Twist. Jonathan Saunders AW15

February 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Twisted 70’s. Jonathan Saunders falls into his routine, bringing nearly same prints each winter. Turtlenecks, A-skirts, slightly flared trousers – it all seems to be an old topic. Why do some designers always go into “now I am all about 60’s, but next season I am all about 70’s”? Yes, I understand those were important periods for fashion, but come on – they are constantly repeating. In reality, this collection by Saunders reminds me of Miu Miu Resort 2015 and many other 70’s inspired presentations. Even if we have all those fun and bold prints – Jonathan makes me yawn.