Trend Report AW15

March 30, 2015March 30, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

AW15 is the season which is merely all about trends. It rather tells a story which might be translated too many languages – we’ve got 80’s, we’ve got goth, we’ve got normcore, we’ve got green flowers – the new autumn / winter season has a lot to offer, trust me.

Why 80’s are cool again? I always thought that this fashion era is slightly poor. But Jonathan Anderson of his J.W. Anderson and Loewe thinks differently. Graphic kaftans, corduroy trousers, over-sized leather jackets are all a signature of 80’s movies and pop-culture icons. Grace Jones appeared on nearly every designer’s mood-board, just like Memphis Milano Studio and their bold furniture. AW15’s favourite, Vetements brought on over-sized mohair sweater with granny’s pearl earrings while Hedi Slimane of Saint Laurent went for a crazy disco party in LA, where 80’s had its impact, too.

Wearing black is not only about wearing black. It’s also all about drama in a way. Marc Jacobs had Diana Vreeland on his mind while Giles gave his women a black, goth lipstick and a lot of vinyl. The pussy bow shirt gave the right amount of sex to that.

Bohemian rhapsody was present everywhere at Chloe, where Clare Keller thought about Kate Bush’ ponchos and patch-worked dresses. Stella Jean had her ethnic chic being transformed into something more bohemia while Burberry‘s Christopher Bailey brought classical, gypsy-esque mood.

#FREETHENIPPLE had a moment on the AW15 runways. Sheer textiles stole the spotlight (think Marc Jacobs). And sometimes, nothing covered model’s breasts. Jacquemus made us think of dadaistic escapism and Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent had a mini-dress which didn’t cover one of the boobies. Lemaire went more alternative, and created a one-of-a-kind leather bag, shaped in two breasts. The effect seemed to be sensual.

Pastels. Not much to say. Bottega Veneta and Prada went pistachio green while Alessandro Dell’Acqua had blush pink all over his cute skirts and shirt at No21.

Blame Alessandro Michele. His recent Gucci debut was all about romance. It was sexy and smart and flirty. It made me of Rubens, Raffaello, Botticelli and other Italian masters of painting. Erdem from London also took a bite from romantic theme, making his AW15 woman exude with fragility and love.

Green flowers. And ultra-mini trend. Brought by Johan Galliano at Maison Margiela.

Fluffy furs were the thing for AW15. Celine, Altuzarra and Louis Vuitton had those sweet, warm and cozy white / pink furs. The one worn by Freja Beha at Louis Vuitton might be a nice thing to wear on a freezing wedding day because it’s so elegant and chic at the same time.

Shiny is more than cool. Anthony Vaccarello and Paco Rabanne shined bright with their dazzling and flickering stud-embroidered suede dresses and sporty mini-dresses.

Checks, checks and checks made the dresses and skirts of the season. Creatures of the Wind had this beautiful twirled skirt with gingham all over it; Miu Miu brought perverse shirts with naive patterns; A.W.A.K.E. went full with checks.

Survivor kit of AW15 officially must contain – DsQuared fringed poncho, Celine “mademoiselle” cape, Sacai anorak coat.

Comfort is always the most important. Victororia Beckham, Lemaire, Stella McCartney, Hermes, Jil Sander, Protagonist and Proenza Schouler know that, by creating beautiful, soft wool dresses, coats and sweaters.

According to Haider Ackermann, a bit of rock’n’roll is mandatory in every wardrobe. Leather skirts, black blazers and strong red accents are not only punk, but also very dandy and refined, if we look at Dries Van Noten or Lanvin. But still, the smoking suit contest is won by A.F. Vandevorst.

The Japanese designers go avant-garde. As always. Comme des Garcons brings on the topic of sadness through black lace and voluminous silhouettes; Yohji Yamamoto‘s women exude with mystery; Junya Watanabe uses mathematics in order to create clothes out of this world. The Irish & Korean native, Simone Rocha, thinks Louise Bourgeois and her suspended artworks.

Khaki; military; olive. So many ways to describe this shade of green, used in great way by Raf Simons at Dior, Mona Kowalska at A Détacher and Jason Wu.

Denim. Literally and basing the idea on jeans blue. Rachel Comey, Marques Almeida and Louis Vuitton make us drool for a new pair of Levis.

Colorful Volumes. Marques Almeida AW15

February 26, 2015February 26, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marques Almeida is super cute this season. The rising-star label shows off with their signature denim, but also brings a lot of new “things” – bright knitted dresses, brocade and fur (possibly faux) and polished leather accessories. Models marched to the no-nonsense sounds of Bjork’s 1995 “Army of Me”, their hair hanging in undone grungy locks. The attitude reminded me of Corinne Day’s photography from the 90’s, “It was a lot about those shoots where you would have these really expensive garments with a wrecked sofa” said Paulo Almeida. The final result? A very #funkyoffish collection. It’s cute and it definitely stole the hearts of London fashionistas.

Drama at it’s Best. Giles AW15

February 25, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Drama is the thing this season, that’s sure. After Marc Jacobs (the heavy Diana Vreeland boheme), Thomas Tait (elusive horror mood) and Thom Browne (a 19th century hospital vs. mafioso funeral), Giles Deacon shows us that a fashion show is not only a stiff presentation of clothes – it’s a performance. It’s a stage for actors – models – showing emotions through their walk and clothes. And in this statement, I would like to highlight Giles drama the most. The show was just extraordinary – Edie Campbell wore a latex Victorian blazer; Stella Lucia had a pink ribbon tied around her chiffon turtleneck – dress; Anna Cleveland, the star of this show, simply danced in a twirling organza gown. All girls had black lips and something ultra-vivid about them – maybe it’s Katie Grand’s styling? Or the old-fashioned beauty of British fashion shows? I can’t explain. But I am truly seduced by Giles for fall.

Suspiria and Him. Thomas Tait AW15

February 25, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Do you know the horror movie called Suspiria? If yes, then you totally will understand this eerie and disturbing Thomas Tait collection. Latex gloves, wide pantalons, leather skirts and bloody red cowboy jackets. The invitation’s still from Dario Argento’s 1977 horror masterpiece Suspiria was echoed on pleated dresses – changed into digital print for Tait, made from screen captures done on his laptop while watching films in bed. “They’re kind of really shitty and a lazy way of doing some kind of informal research. I thought it would be really interesting to make these highly intricate garments and undercut them with a crap image from the film I love.” The dramatic venue and the music – created by Frederic Sanchez – matched the melancholic, slightly violent mood. Summing up – the collection is very, very interesting and… elusive?

Winning LVMH’s Young Fashion Designer prize last year has meant a huge difference to Thomas Tait, who like many young designers struggled with keeping the business working – not becaues of lack of ideas, but funds. “The money kept me from going out of business to be honest,” he said. And that’s pretty much a very happy ending for Thomas (in case of sponsoring), and hopefully it will be one for other money-struggling designers.

Modern Boudoir. Christopher Kane AW15

February 25, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

For Christopher Kane, February is the month of buzz. The AW15 collection presented during #LFW was accompanied with the opening of his first ever flagship store in London, on Mount Street. The store looks sleek and modern – the interior reflects the aesthetic of the brand and clothes. But coming back to the collection – we are talking about sex in here. The opening look – a seductive velvet suite. Then, the game changed it’s manner into fluid-like organza and hand-made embroidery. Lastly, Chris brough an orgy of hand-appliqued illustrations of naked women and men… literally, having fun. Seeing the model Alexandra Elizabeth having a polygamic relationship on her body made everybody feel puzzled and a bit concerned. Not that I oppose this type of relationship, but… which women would want to wear a dress representing such, uhm, event? That’s a topic which must be discussed.