Men’s – New Menswear. J.W. Anderson AW15

January 12, 2015January 12, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thankfully, during men’s London fashion weeks, we’ve got J.W. Anderson, who makes the young breed of designers interesting. Showing his collection on the second day of the fashion week, Jonathan Anderson presented his new ideas on a purple carpet made from used tires which looks pretty much amazing. As we all know from the past, women’s pre-fall and men’s fall are connected – the colour palette, the textiles and the main themes are very close. Sudden odd details abounded, like oversize collars and sleeves and buttons fabricated from metalwork (these make me constantly confused). But his provocateur attitude was tempered by immediately desirable clothes like the two-tone turtlenecks, degrade effect car coats and gorgeous, long scarves. “I like this idea of something that felt a little apocalyptic, or looking like it came from a computer game,” explained Anderson backstage of the show’s backstage. As for the clothes, they were a “mishmash of decades – I like isolating the idea of the look.” So the fabric on a coat could be from the 60s but the detailing on it from the 70s. “We were reflecting on different tribal movements and hybridising them. Is it an 80s jacket or not? Does that even matter? It’s about rejecting nostalgia.”

Faux Nostalgia. J.W. Anderson Pre-Fall’15

January 9, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson surprises. His SS15 was unexpectedly lady-like while pre-fall is very nostalgic – 60’s mini skirts, 70’s psychedelic prints and “granny” necklaces and bracelets. “Nothing works together,” he added gleefully during the presentation. “When something makes me uncomfortable, I resist the temptation to make it look good.” That’s visible- in this collection he mixes so many styles from the past, that the result seems to be modern, and surreal. A bit like the Soviet Russian architecture – at the first sight it seems to be modern, but in reality deep historical influences hide behind it’s walls.

Ukrainian Institute of Technology, Kiev

Presidium of the Russian Academies of Science, Moscow

Polythechnic Institute, Minsk

But coming back to the collection – “I’ve never been a designer designer,” he said. “I see it more as a look, what’s new right now.” And this—with its odd fabrics and peculiar proportions, cerebral and sensual—looks just that. New right now. But with faux cover which hides the old roots. The colours and textures combined with those curvy belts and emalia earrings makes me wonder. And I like when a collection makes me want to think, compare and research.

To Meadham Kirchhoff

December 20, 2014June 15, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

I need to confess something. When I heard the news, that Meadham Kirchhoff won’t show it’s AW15 collections becaues their “debts have caught up”, I nearly started to cry. That might surprise you- right, I never really wrote anything special about Meadham Kirchhoff. On my blog, I post only this what I like and feel- and Meandham Kirchhoff’s style is not always on my taste radar. But I always, always observe their collections with some kind of amusement and respect. They were, and are, so brave. In the sea of minimalism, normcore or 10,000 euro Valentino dresses, it’s hard to have a label with clothes which do not match any of those three categories. Well, only if you are some kind of Versace. In reality, Kirchhoff’s pieces are pricey, but they are as beautifully embroidered, as for example Erdem. Then, another problem strikes. “The way the industry works, you’re driven to do all these grandiose shows, all these things that are incredibly expensive,” Benjamin Kirchhoff said. “and then one day, the sponsorship runs out. You’re on your own.” Meanwhile, Edward Meadham pointed to the struggle to fulfill orders for stockists: “It’s always seemed like, ‘How do we do this? How do we keep up?’” In other words, Meadham Kirchhoff didn’t have trouble until they became an REALLY independent label.

But what’s interesting, is the fact that Meadham Kirchhoff is seriously loved by Londoners. They are so true, real. I think it is the last big something after Vivienne Westwood’s SEX shop and Alexander McQueen years in London. It’s punk, it’s cool, it’s something buzzy and fuzzy. The glitter jumble; the ribbons attached to every pair of boots; the tampon tree at SS15 show venue. Kitsch is sick, but in both meanings at Meadham Kirchhoff. Well, what can I say more. I just wish them a bright future (and this type of talent always finds it’s right path). The rumour has it, that possibly Benjamin and Edward are going to takeover Schiapparelli which was suddenly abandoned by Marco Zanini. And that would be EPIC. I also see them at Oscar del la Renta, if not that boring Nina Ricci guy.

Y-A-W-N to fashion without Meadham Kirchhoff.

Marques Almeida / Advent 2014

December 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

December 19: Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida are a lovely couple which makes the most eccentric denim (and not only) fashion in the world. Playing with volumes, colours and vibes, since the beginning Marques Almeida has been acclaimed by fashion editors as the new “go-to” brand of the year. My favourite thing that they did for 2014, was their crazy, very strong AW14 collection, where the designers had fun with fur stoles! Marta and Paulo also created a “spark”, making their signature fabric get really important on the London fashion scene.

J.W. Anderson / Advent 2014

December 15, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

December 15: J.W. Anderson is the young London-based designer, which seems to be really busy at the moment- four collections for his womenswear, two for menswear and… four more collections for the historical Spanish label Loewe, a year. That’s a lot! But nothing makes Jonathan feel out-of-ideas: he can once be full of sharpness, once full of femininity. And for his debutant collection at Loewe presented earlier this year, he thought about using leather (Loewe’s biggest attribute) in new ways and forms. And that’s just the beginning of what this ultra-open-minded designer can bring to Loewe, and of course to his own brand, J.W. Anderson.