Take a Bow. Jonathan Saunders SS15

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I like that, Jonathan! This season is possibly the most strong to date for this British designer. In his files, he’d come across a piece of cotton voile from a Japanese mill as light—and pliable—as paper. The possibility of combining the two inspired a striking effect: paper saturated with blue, impressed on fabric, like artisanal color-blocking. “It’s about process,” master printmaker Saunders explained. He wanted lightness. He got it.The show was really about beautiful lightness, ruffles and ribbons. This fragile yet very dynamic collection had also a beautiful shade of blue in it at the end. It felt elusive and fresh. And, in comparison with last season, it was much better!

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New Woman. J.W. Anderson SS15

IMG_7637.JPGWow. Jonathan Anderson really shocked everybody during his SS15 show. Like, really. And definitely the master of modern adrogeny takes us to a new level of femininity. Me, being slightly bored with Anderson’s minimal, sharp tunics and dresses, thic tres chic (yes, CHIC, at J.W. Anderson) brought something controversial and interesting. With a lot of leather and giving a leg, the whole collection was “hid” under huge, black hats… That was a really beautiful, lady-like moment. Also, the jewellery was good… Wooden buckles and puzzle necklaces are major. Although I am not always a fan of J.W. Anderson collection (like for example last season), I always feel something new will be presented… Is Jonathan the Phoebe Philo of London? Think so. By the way, happy birthday Jonathan Anderson! It’s your 30! And- well- you did yourself a really good present!

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Relaxed Way. Barbara Casasola SS15

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Barabara Casasola is the hottest name coming from Brazil, making the start of London Fashion Week relaxed and sexy. For summer, the designer used shades of warm grey, khaki and orange, to put together a sensual line-up.The pencil skirts and tops were slim, but at the same time warn in a slouch way; the closing look, so the tank-top worn with pleated trousers (they too good), was also an easy way to show the warm feminine side. Casasola is on the boundary of simple dressing and provocative sensuality- and we really like it! We’ve got our eyes on this emerging designer!

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Men’s: Casely-Hayford

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Casely-Hayford is a menswear brand which is designed by Charlie and Joe- father-and-son duo, that feels the same vibe. The British label had it’s big moment for SS15 during London Fashion Week. Their idea was to fuse classical men clothes, with artistic, a bit “slouchy” look which I really loved. The main refference? John Baldessari works, which are known for appropriation of images with colourful dots and squares. Even dough the shapes and cuts of all suit jackets and trousers were very “gentleman” like, there was nothing traditional about it. My favourite outfit? The one above, with camel mackintosh coat, over-sized white t-shirt and black, cropped trousers. The look is very easy to achieve, while it brings up sophistication and British coolness. Casely-Hayford is the label to know, gents! Caswly-Hayford is available at Dover Street Market New York, London and Tokyo, Selfridges, Barney’s, Union LA. Joyce, IT and Swank Hong Kong, Biffi Milano, Rail Brescia, United Arrows, Tomorrowland, Annan, Luis Japan and Colette Paris.

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Trademark

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There is a new hot brand on the horizon created by Pookie and Louisa Burch. The offbeat brand called Trademark is just the name you need to know! Their new season was presented in cool look-book starring Waleska Gorczevski, which definitely matched the clothes. The picnic printed dresses, denim barn jacket with a red shearling collar and feltlike wool of one dirndl skirt are just the perfect fit for Summer gardening or autumn park stroll. Sweaters continue to be a highlight for Trademark; this season it was the trompe l’oeil twinset in royal blue and red that really stood out. Another clever idea: a silk evening pajama set in navy and off-white for the girl who wants to look pulled together without pulling on a dress in the best way. This pretty interesting brand is the one we are interested to watch evolve…

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