Roksanda Ilincic to a surprise of mine, created a great collection. Really. The show’s colorful, popping patchworks whether it was inserts in long felt skirts or the clear plastic squares that decorated dresses to close the show. Then a added metallic, wide belts for an industrial feel, and a lovely geometrical dress with beautiful coat was created. The deconstructed silhouettes, bright with color blocking had an artistic flair, not least when furs appeared on the runway in a radiant version. With roots in evening wear and artsy attitude- Ilincic outstood herself for this season.
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Commerce Dirt. Christopher Kane AW14
The sad thing happened. Christopher Kane got commercial. But this had to happen since he belongs now to Kering Group. However, there were still little doses of shock on this Monday show- mink cuddling up with shiny, wet looking nylon, and shoes that channeled factory worker chic (look at the protective covers!). Mr. Kane’s most interesting and fresh elaboration was layers of organza flipping over the front of a dress, mimicking book pages turning, as if he had time to read one. But the biggest new arrivals were the bags- so called leather goods. They were tiny, black and made out of leather… with some little protective covers too. Although the collection is pretty nice- it feels straight away that Chris run out of breath this season.
Funhouse. Jonathan Saunders AW14
Jonathan Saunders created a need-right-now collection for AW14. Seriously, these funny pointy-shouldered coats and embroidered gowns look not only elegant, but also quirky and cool. With layered knitwear, blouses, silver skirts and cool varsity jackets and signature Saunders florals, it feels that the collection will be bestseller when it will hit the stores… and it’s really perfect for a casual splash in London!
Greek. Mary Katrantzou AW14
For winter 2014, Mary Katrantzou had a total clean mind about her new collection. She exited her main focus and went greek- “Greek! It wasn’t supposed to be” she says. But there was something about this amazing embroidery which definitely underlined this collection from all others full of digital collections. The copper pastry cutters and all things she once put into her digitalized prints, there was, perhaps, a scent of her native country in this collection. Wherever the inspiration came from, pleats that were twisted and finished to different lengths were beautifully crafted. Katrantzou reached deep into her artistic soul.
Blurred. J.W. Anderson AW14
J.W. Anderson loves playing with shape. And with silhouttes. But his AW14 was a bit blurred and unstable in fact- the gowns were made out of delicate fabrics, although looked cold. What else, it felt that Anderson wanted to move into a new direction, into something new- but this “something” was lost.
Interesting turtlenecks and shoes appeared on the runway with all those structured minimalistic forms… But the collection lacked of the designer’s freshness that was always brought on London Fashion Week runway. That was surely one of the weakest collection to date, but the most commercial.
Design & Culture by Ed 