Dream, Dream. Alberta Ferretti AW25

Lorenzo Serafini‘s debut collection for Alberta Ferretti wasn’t the loudest, but certainly was persuasive. “It is the big dreams that make people big. Small ones are desires. One should not be afraid to be ‘exaggerated’… at least in dreams.” Serafini used this beautiful Franca Sozzani quote in the notes for a show that represented, for him, the actualization of a very big dream: his new role at the Milan-based brand founded in 1981. The Sozzani factor was thanks to the late great Vogue Italia’s friendship with Ferretti, and her inspirational status for Serafini. Alongside the founder, Sozzani acted as the spiritual muse for this collection. You could actually imagine these dreamy, billow-y gowns and oversized suits on the pages of Franca’s Vogue, maybe photographed by Sarah Moon or Paolo Roversi. Serafini also delivered some of the most fascinating evening numbers we’ve seen this season – especially the unobvious-looking draped dresses that had a little of Romeo Gigli in them.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Vintage Chic. Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini Resort’17

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Philosophy, as a brand, is going through a renaissance with Lorenzo Serafini‘s creative direction. The latest collection for resort 2017 perfectly sums up Serafini and his aesthetic – it’s about a girl, who has a weak spot for vintage, or at least, vintage-looking clothes. The look-book is filled with fringed biker-jackets, French Riviera oozing denim flares and suede overknees. Little, floral mini-dresses are styled with chokers, and the overall style blurs somewhere between Camdem market finds and Siouxsie Sioux’s leather mini skirts. The details, like feather necklaces or studded belts, make Lorenzo’s collection look real and hearty, and real. It seems that Philosophy wearer indeed listens to old Rolling Stones vinyls and dances to Eurythmics. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini can be freely added to the list of Milan’s newly beloved labels, standing next to No21 or Stella Jean.

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Poet’s Romance. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Pre-Fall’16

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I was appealed to Lorenzo Serafini‘s toned romance at Philosophy already in September – and this moody pre-fall 2016 lookbook wins my heart, even though the brand felt a bit sleepy to me in the past. Feminity, romance and lightness are the stylistic traits of the new creative director of the label, which was found by Alberta Ferretti back in 1984. Before his appointment, Stefano lead the womenswear at Dolce & Gabanna – however I can’t entirely believe in this by looking at those delicate and sensual clothes presented by the brand’s muses, Stella Lucia and Julia Jamin. Initially, the collection is about a masculine, slightly over-sized yet minimal suit – but then, Serafini keeps it more girly, introducing frivolous, lace dresses and crotchet tops. Also, the shearling coat selection is sharp – it seems like the season’s must-have piece will come from Philosophy.

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