Acne Studios knows how to launch a new store. The Swedish label has opened its second Los Angeles flagship in West Hollywood. This space is designed to resemble an art gallery, with two glass walls allowing passers by to see the store and its central sculpture, designed by the London-based artist Daniel Silver. Other elements of this dreamland include industrial touches such as a concrete floor and a corrugated ceiling, while an acid yellow color catches one’s eye immediately. And there’s a patio!
(By the way, Acne has some really good sunglasses this season… and they match the West Hollywood colour palette, so why not drool over them here as well?)
I love Eckhaus Latta. While other designers leave New York for Paris, it’s comforting to see that Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta choose the Big Apple for their fashion shows. Or rather, Brooklyn. For seasons, Eckhaus Latta is a champion in model casting diversity (from plus-size girls to elderly ladies), but lately, it also impresses with the fabric choice. From knit skirts spun from Italian yarn to slinky rayon Jersey evening wear, there’s a cool sense of raw meets fine in every single piece. The lilac mini-dress is clingy, but not vulgar; masculine blazers make a statement, even though they aren’t overly sharp in silhouette. Mike and Zoe respect the body, in their own, arty way. But how do they get the idea what a woman (or man) wants? In their L.A. store, “there’s only a curtain that separates our studio from our store,” explained Latta. “We can hear when our customers are trying on jeans, when men are trying on women’s clothes, and vice versa.” There is no better feedback, than the one coming from a client. Take notes, other designers.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Firstly, that was Maria Grazia Chiuri‘s best collection at Dior up-to-date. And it was far, far away from Paris. Comparing to her previous outing – an all-blue collection, which rather looked like Armani’s millionth set of blazers than a second line-up from a debuting creative director – resort 2018 was quite outstanding. With preciously intricate gowns (which will surely find a place among L.A.’ wealthiest women), an incredible tent constructed in the middle of Upper Las Virgenes Canyon in Calabasas and a strong, Georgia O’Keeffe moment (the late “Mother of American modernism” was known for wearing a black hat and matching over-sized coat), there’s a lot to mention, while discussing this collection. After the show, Maria Grazia said that she has a life-long love affair with Clarissa Pinkola Estés book called Women Who Run with the Wolves – that set the free-spirited mood behind the silhouettes. Moreover, the designer decided to use the famous Lascaux cave paintings as the main print for rich, jacquard fabrics (Monsieur Dior used them too, back in 1951). Then, we also had the tribal symbols covering silk sheaths and ball skirts, underscoring Chiuri’s love for mystical themes.
But, am I the only one, who thinks that there’s too much going on in here? It’s beautiful, no doubt. However, Maria Grazia’s vision for this season has no bigger connection with the maison, as for me. Expect, a few old-school Dior logos on the bags and a suede bar jacket with fringes (AND this looked really upsetting). It seems that the designer has no sense of consistency, as she jumps from one topic to another – and that’s clearly visible once you re-see her previous collections, spanning from enchanted forest nymphs to faux-feminists in pricey t-shirts. And the saddest thing is that Dior’s identity becomes blurrier with every season. Resort 2018 rather looks like a well-funded Ralph Lauren collection or Chanel’s memorable Paris-Texas capsule (déjà vu, anyone?).
One thing’s sure – Chiuri knows how to design a dress and make Rihanna see her show. But does she know how to lead a heritage brand with sense? I think we’re getting to the point, where the answer is ‘no’.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
I am an Instagram maniac and I openly confess that I spend too much time on filtering my feed. But it’s irresistible, when you have so many great accounts to follow! If you are ready for a dose of beautifully curated walls, inspiring photos and delightful shots – see my December recommendations!
@larryhofmann / A model, who walked for everybody, from Tom Ford to Dior, taking some truly subversive photographs for off-beat magazines during her free-time. But for Larissa Hofmann that’s not enough. She’s also an artist, who does spilled coffee drawings (literally). The effect? Spontaneous, far from perfect, yet intriguing study of human body. For committed Egon Schiele fans. Full series coming soon, so keep your eye on her Instagram feed.
@virgomood / All things reminiscent of a virgo’s mood. I’m a virgo, so naturally I’m in love with this account.
@bfgf / An art brand inspired with comfort, beauty and humour. Scarves, blankets and pillows, all covered with childish motifs, curvy silhouettes and stereotipically American symbols. With love from Los Angeles. Buy it all here.
After months of speculations, Kering has confirmed – Hedi Slimane is leaving Saint Laurent. Did Hedi realise that there is not enough place for him and Demna Gvasalia, the other designer who makes cheap-looking clothes with four digit price-tags? Let’s be clear – Slimane, during his three-and-a-half year tenure was the master of hypocrisy. Do you remember the autumn-winter 2013, when he presented mohair cardigans, studded boots and skimpy, leather dresses? Some said it was a modern-day nod to Yves Saint Laurent’s controversial Le Scandale collection. But some were more realistic, and not that optimistic – these clothes looked like grunge, but a la River Island circa 2010 rather than Kurt Cobain. Even though in the same year Courtney Love became the face of Saint Laurent. If talking of another odd things that happened during Slimane’s “era” – the tiaras from SS16. One costs, yes, 995 euros here. And it gets even more ironic, when you note that this is a prom-like, brass tiara embellished with rhinestone. Not with gems, silver or, huh, diamonds. I doubt it’s even Swarovski.
However, Hedi Slimane can be at least praised for the speed and desperation with which he had totally revamped the house. The interiors of the flagship stores, which used to be so boring with Stefano Pilati in charge, got the marble upgrade, while the advertisement campaigns – starring Kim Gordon, Joni Mittchel and lately, Jane Birkin – were always photographed by him, and had a cool, LA-rooted rock’n’roll spark. Also, it’s reported that the revenue of the brand increased in all categories, from accessories to clothes. People are buying Saint Laurent, so there is surely an undefined reason for Slimane’s success. But then, why did he leave? And will Anthony Vaccarello, whose aesthetic isn’t far from Hedi’s, get the point? Time will tell. But for now, let’s look back at the journey that Slimane took us to.
Eric Roinestad is my favourite cereamic-artist from LA. He mixes beauty of porcelain, with brutal, meaty cacti, creating a sublime and fresh interior decor. WIth his cold Scandinavian heritage, he mixes his aesthetic with hot Southern Californian landscape, producing vessels, vases and different types of handy storing pieces looking like… cacti leaves. Isn’t this great? Would really love giving my space this type of still “organic” refreshment…
I am so into niche labels lately and The Elder Statesman has just appeared on my favourite list. The Los Angeles based brand designed by Greg Chait doesn’t do mood boards, but thinks of the vibe amd wearer. For the SS15 line-up, The Elder Statesman offers dyed ponchos, amazing, but really amazing denim, and beautiful tops. It really has a cool, whatever-like mood. Although the prices hurt my heart (the quality is truly high, with all those cottons and cashmeres), the collection is perfect for her and him. It’s simply fine! Dying for these sweaters…
Saint Laurent’s SS15 was a really sultry, hot and steamy event. Other designers are channeling the idealism of the early ’70s this season; Hedi Slimane is into the sexy. “Un, deux, trois, coucher avec toi,” Al Eide sang on the soundtrack, specially commissioned for the show, but don’t let the French lyrics fool you. Everybody got the impression they were in Slimane’s adopted hometown of L.A., hanging backstage with glam-rock fan girls Lori Maddox and Sable Starr in their bad old not even legal days on the Sunset Strip. Is the new collection new tendancy of dressing “slutty”? Is it the Parisian non-chalance? Is it only all about nightlife of Los Angeles teens? One thing’s sure- it’s totally, totally Hedi. He does this aesthetic from the beginning of her Saint Laurent career. And this makes him a real individual of fashion world. These killer heels, super mini skirts, bawdy sheer blouses and avant-garde turbans looked like contrast- but together, they created a chaotic harmony. Lets also note the couture part- the “dirty” dresses were all ambroidered with crystals and sequins. Up close, these skirts and blazers were all about eel leather and velvet. Still having mixed emotions about the collection, but it was surely one of the most unforgettable this season. Art by John Baldessari.