La Ruta del Bacalao. Luis De Javier SS24

November 1, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

Luis De Javier, Spanish-born, London-based designer, presented his spring-summer 2024 colection in a space smack in the middle of Hollywood, just above Sunset Boulevard. The designer brought on a new stylist – his mentor, Riccardo Tisci. Judging by these few sentences you can already predict this was a hot fashion moment. Against a techno soundtrack, de Javier presented a collection that has evolved from his previous ones, with a matured sense of proportion and volume. He continued his exploration of political commentary through clothing inspired by Spain’s 1990s hardcore rave movement, La Ruta del Bacalao. Since it was shut down by an oppressive government, the collection imagines a utopia in which the movement would still be alive today. Corseting was the common denominator, as it was in past seasons, communicated in different materials such as leather, canvas, and latex, and layered under and over other pieces. A latex coat with exaggerated shoulders draped fluidly; constructed as a corset or dress, it covered the body as if it were poured over it. The bling came by way of chains and cords draped over jersey dresses, and unlikely materials, such as extra-long ballerina nails, that were reimagined as dramatic fringe on an asymmetrical evening dress. Mixing club kid vibes and Cristobal Balenciaga-inspired could easily go wrong. Tisci’s mentorship lends refinement to de Javier’s vision. Where his past collections had obvious references, this one is more subtle, and what might have previously been rough around the edges now came with the romantic darkness Tisci is known for. Tisci’s touch in the styling was evident as well, via the restrained color palette, the delicate mix of lace and leather, and belts cinched tightly across the bust. The jersey t-shirts worn over the head recalled a nun’s veil, which is in line with the religious references Tisci used during his time at Givenchy. This was a strong, evocative collection, and also a big reminder that fashion needs more of Riccardo Tisci.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Call For Peace. Imitation Of Christ SS24

October 24, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

Imitation Of Christ‘s Tara Subkoff created the term “up cycling” in 2000. 23 years later, it is a prevalent – and relevant – phenomenon in the fashion industry. The designer is more than fine with this; she wants others to “imitate” that sustainability-forward practice. With fashion’s ever-returning obsession with grunge and the 90’s, Imitation Of Christ’s spring-summer 2024 collection – which opened this Los Angeles Fashion Week with a dance performance including a blessing in every major world religion – convinces with gorgeous slip-dresses, DIY details and gender-blurring silhouettes. The hand-painted dove on billow-y gowns and utilitarian boiler suits is a fitting call for global peace. The symbol circles back to the spiritual side of Subkoff’s fashion performance, where the harmony of prayers and pujas created a peaceful celebration of all religions practiced alongside one another with respect and tolerance. One of the white dresses bore a quote from Ralph Waldo Emerson that read “Peace cannot be achieved through violence, it can only be attained through understanding”. As simple as that yet so hard to comprehend for the politics of this world.

The Ranch. Phipps AW23

August 3, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

Now that he’s decamped from Paris and relocated to the sunny Hollywood Hills in his home state of California, it’s safe to say that Spencer Phipps has entered his LA era. “I wanted to focus on the core essence of what Phipps represents and I think I can do it better in the US. It makes more sense for the brand from a marketing strategy, a business strategy, and also my own personal life.” To present the autumn-winter 2023 Phipps collection, he chose a quintessential Hollywood location, Big Sky Movie Ranch. If you’ve never heard of this sprawling landscape set deep in Ventura County, you’ve certainly seen it on TV and in the movies; it was used as a set for everything from Little House on the Prairie to Twin Peaks to, most recently, Babylon. If Phipps’s design story were a script, this would be that pivotal scene where the protagonist takes control of the narrative. Over the year that he’s been back, he’s refined the brand identity, drawing on inspiration from its rugged workwear roots; formally introduced denim and underwear, and built out his womenswear. There’s even talk of moving all production from Portugal to LA. He counts these as the progressive steps that align with a commitment to US-based manufacturing and sustainable practices.

Phipps’s work is grounded in reality; he extracts elements of American subcultures—western, grunge, punk – and reimagines them through a contemporary lens modeled on a diverse cast of characters including real cowboys, bikers, and one multi-hyphenate jiu jitsu black belt-magician-guitarist. The designer ties the brand divisions together through cohesive design and layered styling. For the new season, the influence of Richard Avedon’s American West series came across in blanket capes and chap jeans crafted from upcycled leather scraps and vintage denim, whereas grommets and d-rings spoke to the influence of the ’50s teens in Karlheinz Weinberger’s photography. Standout pieces from the new womenswear included long, straight, slouchy jeans and a deadstock pullover anorak paired with a camouflage midi skirt. On the men’s side, there were “butch florals” in the form of camouflage patterns and subtle hieroglyphs representative of the four archetypes of masculinity – the king, warrior, magician, and lover. “We’ve always been doing our own thing and will continue to do so,” he said. “Our voice stood out in the Paris landscape and I believe the same will happen here, but with a bigger community.”

Eye To Eye It Lasts. The Elder Statesman Resort 2024

June 14, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s back to groovy basics at The Elder Statesman. “Resort is holiday, so we tapped into a lot of our heritage, traditional kind of motifs,” Bailey Hunter, the brand’s creative director, said. “Florals, tie-dyes, stripes – all the things that we’re known for, we reinvented them in a way; and we’ve used a lot of new woven materials that we’ve brought into our library.” Materials – and yarn, especially – are king at Elder Statesmen. But the brand keeps on evolving into other categories. The yellow suit that opened the lookbook is a cashmere-cotton-wool twill made in Italy that feels like the softest and lightest denim. Another suit – the brand calls it “relaxed tailoring” – is made from Italian 50/50 cashmere and wool and comes in three colors: rose hip, dark green, and bark, in both men’s and women’s styles. A highlight of the collection was certainly the wool donegal made on a vintage loom in Italy in colorblocked squares of gray, navy, and wine. In the lookbook it appears as a wrap skirt secured with an oversized safety-pin and styled with a cashmere hand-painted crewneck sweater. Together, they’re youthfully punky and quite timeless.

A collaboration with Uggs is The Elder Statesman’s first foray into footwear. The clogs, mules, and boots made from patchworked sheepskin and decorated with “darning”-style embroidery are sure to become must-haves when they’re released later this year. A sporty tank and mini skirt made from hand-knit alpaca and cotton in various shades of blue, a wave patterned knitted cashmere shirt and pants, and a pair of knitted striped cargo pants in mixed bouclé yarns were more proof that the knitwear experimentation here is unparallelled. The bouclé cargos were worn with a black sweater featuring an intarsia illustration of eyes and the phrase “eye to eye it lasts,” a design that came from Greg Chait’s, the brand’s founder, grandmother Thelma. Chait said, “I feel like [the phrase] is about the collection.” Hunter finished the thought: “It’s about how it’s a lot better to see things in person, and see how everything feels.”

One Night Only. Chanel Resort 2024

May 14, 2023 | Design & Culture by Ed

For its resort 2024 collection, Chanel took us to Los Angeles – the Paramount Studios lot to be specific. With stars including Margot Robbie, Kristen Stewart and Marion Cotillard lighting up the front row, and a post-show performance by Snoop Dogg, this was a very Hollywood affair. Ahead of Virginie Viard’s show, movie billboards promoting it as a “One Night Only” event went up around town, making an explicit point about Chanel’s embeddedness in LA’s dominant culture (a 30,000-square-foot Chanel store, the brand’s biggest in the U.S., opened on Rodeo Drive last week). As a matter of fact, Viard didn’t look at the silver screen or the red carpet for inspiration, but to what appeared to be a more quotidian example of Los Angeles: the Venice Beach boardwalk, a see-and-be-seen playground for roller skaters, weight lifters, beach bunnies, and epic sunsets. “I thought let’s do Jane Fonda, Cindy Crawford – all our heroines,” she said at the “accessoirsation” of the collection. “There are jeans, a more aerobic feeling; every show is the occasion to do something we’ve never done before.” Viard’s stamp is the more feminine, youthful hand she’s brought to the house since taking over as artistic director in 2019, but the sporty vibe of the collection, with its leg warmers, wedge heel sneakers, running shorts, and swim tanks, plus the occasional skateboard, was something new. Not every look was a success, though. Still, think of it as a Chanel look for a star’s every occasion, including, in a serendipitous bit of timing, Robbie’s upcoming press tour for Barbie, which is shaping up to be the movie of the summer.