Objects With Souls. Hodakova SS26

September 30, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

I really love how wildly nonconforming – and delightfully nuts – the first day of Paris Fashion Week was. Similarly to Julie Kegels, Ellen Hodakova Larsson explores the theme of deconstruction. But in her hands, the approach takes a distinctly material-driven twist. In Hodakova’s world, garments – being wearable objects – possess souls of their own.

For spring, she reimagines leather furniture covers as bulbous, body-morphing dresses; transforms vintage bed linens into oversized slips; and repurposes deadstock handbag frames as bras. The highlight of the collection, however, was the series of finale looks, which nodded to folkloric craftsmanship in a mystical, ritualistic Midsommar-esque way. Here, Larsson collaborated with Joar Nilsson of Dacapo, a Swede who recently founded a school to preserve the thatching tradition in Skåne.

The thatched mini-dress immediately brought to mind Arkadius’ spring–summer 2001 collection, where the legendary Polish designer dissected Slavic rural themes. In Hodakova’s case, however, the energy felt distinctly Nordic.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Accomplished. Ferragamo SS26

September 28, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

This was certainly Maximilian Davis’ most refined collection for Ferragamo so far – one that didn’t rely on overt references or an overload of ideas. Not that it lacked context: the designer’s imagination settled on a 1925 photograph of silent-screen actress Lola Todd in head-to-toe leopard print, which he connected to a Ferragamo leopard-print shoe from the same period. Davis reflected on the adoption of “exotic” codes at the dawn of the Jazz Age, citing the Harlem Renaissance and Josephine Baker as points of reference.

Those reflections translated into a collection defined by airiness, sensuality, and wearability. The animal-print silk georgette dresses with fringes epitomized this spirit, looking supremely chic in motion. The same could be said of the boxy suits reworked into hourglass silhouettes, cinched with tasseled scarves tied as belts – for both women and men.

Menswear was also among Davis’ most accomplished to date; the sturdy canvas jackets, particularly in faded coral, stood out as highlights. Altogether, the collection is compelling proof that designers need time and space to truly flourish.

ED’s SELECTION:

Ferragamo Nymphe Leather Mules

Ferragamo Belted Wool And Cashmere-blend Coat

Ferragamo Satin Gown

Ferragamo Hug Satin Shoulder Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Rough. Hodakova AW25

March 13, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

I really loved Hodakova’s collection for its roughness. Just like at The Row and Balenciaga, the line-up carried a sense of highlighting the mundane, the unfiltered reality. Ellen Hodakova Larsson’s interest in the theoretical concept of new materialism defines her brand – and has been her main focus ever since launching her eponymous label. Her garments, often made from pre-existing objects and materials, are full of personality. Coats made from upcycled fur and leather belts aggressively sticking out of sheath dresses are Hodakova’s most intriguing new-season experiments. The very riskily cropped pants gave the line-up sleazy sensuality… all that felt truly cool, yet somewhat disturbing – just like contemporary life. The penultimate look featured the base of a snare drum, which could have been an accessory or a skirt, and the finale was a model somewhat suffocatingly confined in a double bass, with her head and legs free. Cate Blanchett (who regularly wears Hodakova on the red carpet) playing Lydia Tár comes to mind immediately.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Femininity is Fun. Miu Miu AW25

March 12, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Miu Miu was delicious. Delightful! This season, Miuccia Prada mused about the accessories of femininity – bras, furs, brooches. Are they relevant today? Do they lift up? At her reductionist Prada collection, she seemed to turn her back to anything superfluous. But at Miu Miu, the frivolous, younger sister, she seemed to fully indulge in all the “feminine” ornaments that in the end of the day bring utmost pleasure. With a cast consisting of Sarah Paulson and Lou Doillon, and Lotta Volkova’s phenomenal styling, the collection remixed different decades that shaped what’s affiliated as feminine today. 1920s flapper silhouettes accented with very-retro caps. 1950s knee length satin lingerie dresses (with the bra peaking out!). 1980s uptown power-looks, smoothed around the edges and completed with Deeda Blair’s hairstyle. It might sound like a lot, but the overall effect was absolutely Miu Miu. And it reminded us that fashion can be truly, truly fun to play around with.

ED’s SELECTION:

Miu Miu Short-Sleeve Cashmere Sweater

Miu Miu Intarsia Logo Cashmere Briefs

Miu Miu Leather Lace-Up Moccasins

Miu Miu Shearling Collar Oversized Jacket

Miu Miu Rose Print Knee Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Pina. Ferragamo AW25

March 2, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

For a second season in a row, Ferragamo‘s Maximilian Davis is inspired with contemporary dance. Pina Bausch was an in-your-face reference for autumn-winter 2025, just looking at the petal strewn runway (a nod to one of her most famous stagings, “Nelken“). Ballerina’s bodysuits from last collection got replaced with thicker jerseys, semi-sheer shifts and airy drapes. Two densely fringed mesh dresses near the end were hung with carnation-like florals. Some of the oversized tailored outerwear (the collection’s standout moments) echoed the masculine garments that Bausch was sometimes photographed wearing. It all seemed right. But in the end, something’s still missing in Maximilian’s vision for the Italian house.