The last few days of Paris fashion week were rather unimpressive, and that’s a pity, as the season had manygreatmoments. While Miu Miu was quite a joke, Nicolas Ghesquiere‘s collection for Louis Vuitton made me think of the designer’s past. His work at Balenciaga was unforgettable – the vision of future wardrobe, über-cool spontaneity, memorable shoes. His very first collections at Vuitton were incredible, too. But for the last few seasons, Ghesquiere seems to rest on his laurels: biker-girl gears, satin dresses, sporty knits. Same story of a “contemporary girl”. Maybe he didn’t want to introduce anything new this season? Designers slowly start to turn their heads towards being permanent in terms of fashion. But Nicolas’ autumn-winter 2017 collection wasn’t classic. It didn’t have a spark. Well, yes, it was presented at the Louvre. But shouldn’t the clothes be in the spotlight? Big, corporate brands like Louis Vuitton tend to put pressure on things like settings, handbags, etc., but it hurts to see how Ghesquiere’s bright talent begins to drown.
Ever wondered how to make everyone look at you in the fashion industry? The answer is as easy as that – invite Supreme to collaborate on your collection. Kim Jones precisely did this for his autumn-winter 2017 collection for Louis Vuitton, tapping the cult, New York-based brand, which keeps today’s youth drooling. Although I know I should be a fan of Supreme – perfectly fitting into the age target of this streetwear giant – I’m not. I just don’t get ecstatic about seeing a white-on-red logo on a sweatshirt or backpack. But the way Jones introduced Supreme to Louis Vuitton is intriguing. Ignoring the huge gap between ‘luxury ‘ and ‘street’, the designer wasn’t afraid to pull off a crocodile leather aviator jacket with Sup hand-bag or pendant. Moreover, he took a new spin on the monogram print, mashing up LV with SUPREME. In terms of the clothes, Kim didn’t dissapoint. Slouchy styling, brilliant layering – male version of Parisian chic is here, featuring a skate-board and biker hat.
Nicolas Ghesquiere chose to show his spring-summer 2017 collection for Louis Vuitton not at the usual location (Fondation Louis Vuitton), but in the brand’s future boutique. Place Vendome store is opening in 2017, but the decision to stage the collection in this raw, yet beautiful space, was a prove that even though Louis Vuitton might go to far-fetched destinations (like Palm Springs or Rio), its spirit stays in Paris.
When Ghesquiere worked at Balenciaga, his connection to the city was reflected in flirty dresses, unconventional elegance and intriguing layers – in other words, his aesthetic was the soigné embodiment of ‘Parisian chic’ myth. Throughout his Louis Vuitton tenure, Nicolas went global, slightly forgetting about his old, good affair with the city of love. However, the newest collection is just it: an elevated wardrobe of timeless pieces with the right dose of French borgeois. Drenched-in-gold jewellery; masculine blazers; Parisian model “off-duty” look feauturing grunge (or not so, with all those embroideries) t-shirts. How good can it be?
The 80’s are continously embraced by editors and stylists of such local magazines as Vogue Paris or Self Service. While the creative director is friends with them, the mood of this decade has been present in every single detail, from the ‘night-out’ make-up to crystal-embellished slit gowns. For a moment I thought that this is what Lanvin should look like now with Bouchra Jarrar – but then, you can perceive Ghesquiere’s hand in those tailored pants and desirable biker jackets. Magnifique!
I’m in love with Frank Ocean’s latest drop, ‘Blond‘, and anything else that has something to do with his newest album. From Tyrone Lebon’s video for ‘Nikes‘ to Wolfgang Tillmans’ über-cool visuals, Ocean is on everyone’s lips this month. Also, is he just about to relaunch the trend for motocross gear? Posing in a pink hoodie and a matching racing helmet, he makes me want to wear a motocross t-shirt so badly. But Frank isn’t the only person who revives racing style. Fashion has always been in love with the biker jacket – Vetements‘ over-sized version, and its success is a proof. Also, take under consideration Louis Vuitton‘s biker-girl dresses and Alexander Wang‘s customised helmet from 2012.
Louis Vuitton Resort’17
Alexander Wang SS12
AND, have you heard of Anne-France Dautheville? She’s Chloé‘s autumn-winter 2016 muse, who back in the 70s travelled the world on her motorcycle. Her on-the-go wardrobe, so a maxi floral dress and a leather total-look, was reintepreted in a chic, girlie way by Clare Waight Keller, who is Anne-France’s biggest fan. Although Dautheville doesn’t like to be called a fashion person or anything alike, she’s a true style inspiration. Above all, her look was quite shocking in the past. On the way to Tehran, Anne-France was travelling cross-continent, and a group of men started to drive faster than her. “Ten kilometers later, they stop on the side of the road, and they stop me again. I ask, ‘Is there something you forgot?’ And they say, ‘Well, we were wondering, are you a girl or are you a boy?’” Dautheville tells T Magazine.