Unexpected Muses

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It’s clear that fashion has always had its muses. This season, the designers looked forward to all decades – and all of them had their unexpected muse that influenced the whole collection, even though she wasn’t pinned to the moodboard… here is a break-down of spring-summer 2016’s eight unconventional women who left their style DNA forever in fashion!

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Kim Gordon x Marc Jacobs

Kim Gordon, the vocalist and guitarist of 80’s/90’s top grunge band, Sonic Youth, seemed to be present with her spirit in Marc Jacobs’ spring collection. Kim is in Marc’s fashion story from the very beginning – when he was at Perry Ellis, she performed at his debut show. Then, Gordon appeared to be in Jacobs’ first ever advertising campaign in 1998, photographed by Juergen Teller. The recent collection of the American designer focused on the Old Hollywood glamour, however the off-duty, grungy twist was visible in the way the models wore their dresses. They really didn’t care about them, and this was very her.

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Doona Bae x Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquiere

Doona Bae, the actress of the iconic science-fiction film, Cloud Atlas, became an instant, yet very unexpected muse of Nicolas Ghesquiere. Her home-cut bob and manga inspired way of dressing reflects one of the top looks from Louis Vuitton’s collection. The cyberpunk, sci-fi aesthetic is Nicolas’ current obsession – so no wonder why Doona’s film character excites him so much. Just check out his Instagram account.

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Madonna x Miu Miu

Miuccia Prada conveys, as she likes to describe, something “perverse and girlie” to Miu Miu. The recent collection, filled with sheer apron dresses, felt seductive and elusive at the same time. Just like Madonna’s style from Erotica and Human Nature period – a lot of flesh exposure, satin underwear and transparent mini dresses, as everyone can distinctly remember. Erotica, romance. I’d like to put you in a trance.

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Courtney Love x Chloe

Chloe is all about freedom and care-free attitude this season. And this attitude is something you can consider as Courtney Love’s way of being – concerts, parties and fun. Take a note at the photograph above.

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Meryl Streep x Celine

Lately, I have watched Woody Allen’s Manhattan film, and I am surprised to admit that whole New York used to wear Celine dresses! Just look at Meryl Streep, who played Jill – the minimal, light dresses she wore made me think of Phoebe Philo and her feminine, creative direction at the coveted Parisian brand. And, I must say – Meryl looks flawless in this film.

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Sade x Anthony Vaccarello

Sade’s Soldier of Love is as timeless, as denim, which was seen in Anthony Vaccarello spring show. A simple, well-fit pair of jeans can make every outfit look effortless, and Sade has proved that throughout her career.

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Diana Ross x Vetements

Demna Gvasalia would have never considered Diana Ross as his SS16 muse publicly. But the sparkling, sequin dress from the most anti-fashion and anti-corporate brand, Vetements, just screams Chain Reaction. Disco vibes alert is turnt on!

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Frida Kahlo x Gucci

When I saw this dress designed by Alessandro Michele, my first thought was “Frida Kahlo would nail this one”. The meticulously embroidered tehuana dress is such a bold nod to this eccentric, Mexican artist, who totally changed the female art scene. I am in awe – if you ask me, this is the most beautiful dress of the season.

Cyber Luxury. Louis Vuitton SS16

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Spring-summer 2016 season at Louis Vuitton is his best to date. Nicolas Ghesquiere really did show his refreshing stance at the maison – cyber luxury is the best term that reflects the mix of exclusive logo prints and pink-haired model wearing highly hype (whatever this means nowadays) clothes. Nicolas definitely had Japan on his mind this time – the Harajuku girls with manga-inpired robot tiaras and platform sandals make this collection sharp, but with a slight bit of kawaii flavour coming straightly from Tokyo. However, the collection had something more ethnical, too – note the lovely hand-stitched embroideries on suede biker jackets below. Or the feather details on mesh tank-tops and badass gloves. This how you do ethno, Valentino – keep it discreet, but appropriate. But what really hit me this time, is the amazing talent of fusing fashion history that the designer is known for – the Victorian blouses with leather vests and medieval inspired gowns have never, ever looked so modern as in Nicolas’ vision. These shirts, dresses, motorcycle leggings and, yes, jumpsuits (!) are highly in need. Also, I am drooling over these leather, pleated totes – the beauty of these accessories makes them conceptual objects, rather than just “bags”.

Ghesquiere, and his model casting director, Ashley Brokaw, have the most diverse set of girls during Paris Fashion Week. Louis Vuitton is a world-wide  known brand, and it should be praised for having afro, bald, mullet and even pink-haired models (so Grimes, Nicolas’ muse and favourite musician of the moment!). Thanks to Nicolas Ghesquiere, Louis Vuitton became a label, that is more than clothes and a vast range of accessories – now, Louis Vuitton is an open-minded, lifestyle project. Bravo!

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The NG Day

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10th of May – this means, it’s Nicolas Ghesquiere‘s birthday! Let’s celebrate it, by looking back at his biggest moments at Balenciaga, and now at Louis Vuitton – the time-line proves that this guy is a real fashion visionaire. Wishing him all the best!

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AW01 – the “all black” collection. Nicolas showed his amazing tailoring skills through elegant jackets, coats and blazers.

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AW02 – One of my favourite collections ever. He showed soft, oversized sweaters and jackets, and a small group of colorful knee-length collage dresses apparently influenced by Cubist paintings.

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AW04 – This shearling jacket from 2004 is my dream.

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SS06 by Nick Knight

SS06 – The jacket from this collection photographed by Nick Knight.

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Nicolas and his friend, Charlotte Gasinsbourg, in AW10.

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SS11 – Campaign photographed by Inez & Vinoodh.

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AW12 – Cosmic sweatshirts.

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AW14 – Arrival at Louis Vuitton.

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Louis Vuitton SS15 photographed by Juergen Teller.

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Jeanne Damas in SS15‘s corduroy trousers and bra.

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AW15 – Fernanda Ly on the runway.

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Resort 2016 – An extravagant show in Palm Springs, California.

TBC.

Palm Spring. Louis Vuitton Resort’16

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Nicolas Ghesquiere truly amazed me this time. Louis Vuitton‘s Resort 2016 is the first collection, in which he shows he is really the boss. The collection, presented in Palm Springs, California, was a sunny blast of fresh, slightly eccentric fashion. Nicolas presented the silhouettes, that have never been present in his previous shows for the house and Balenciaga. Long, woman-warrior dresses with embellished gems;  high-waisted trousers with harness belts were everywhere; beautifully laser-cut leather jackets which reminded me of Victoriana era brought on the mood of Grimes and Lana Del Rey. But also, some sexy shorts and crop-tops appeared, giving us the vibe of the real all-American summer. But what spiced up the atmosphere of the show was the model casting. Ghesquiere’s favourite bae’s were here – the red-haired Natalie Westling, Argentinian it-girl Mica Arganaraz and the designer’s muse, Fernanda Ly with her mesmerising pink hair.

What may I say more? That California truly suits Nicolas Ghesquiere. And that he is a perfect match for this always open-minded and innovative house.

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