Cultural Fashion

August 31, 2014August 31, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Fashion and culture always had a power, if joint together. So no wonder why the artsy trend for fall’14 are so strong- we’ve got Bauhaus architecture, we’ve got Russian films and we’ve got dadaism- an art movement of the European avant-garde in the early 20th century. Many claim Dada began in Zurich, Switzerland in 1916, spreading to Berlin shortly thereafter but the height of New York Dada was the year before, in 1915. One of the most famous dada artist is Hannah Höch. The collage art movent which had a lot of grey, khaki and solemn colours, got spotted at Celine, Carven and Haider Ackermann this season.

Weimar was another artistic movement, but this time coming from Germany. With Bauhaus at it’s roots, Weimar was popular for it’s geometrical forms, strong colours and minimalism. The rectangular pockets from Givenchy are totally Weimar, isn’t it? And these Jacquemus coats and bold, Thomas Tait dresses…

Bauhaus! art school in Germany that combined crafts and the fine arts, and was famous for the approach to design that it publicized and taught. It operated from 1919 to 1933. At that time the German term Bauhaus – literally “house of construction” – was understood as meaning “School of Building”. It’s most famous graduate? Mies Van Der Rohe. But nowaday, it’s Prada, Balenciaga, Alexander Wang, Dior and Acne, who does the symetrical silhouttes and metallic “constructions” in their designs (best example- that Prada wedge).

If talking of cinema, Miuccia Prada learnt by hard all the scens of The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant. This German movie from 1972 has an all-female cast and is set in the home of the protagonist, Petra von Kant (Berliner fashion designer). It follows the changing dynamics in her relationships with the other women. It’s very sensual, and the clothes and mood perfectly match into Prada’s AW14.

The Place of Meeting Can’t be Changed is a Russian movie, which has it’s plot happening in 1945, Moscow. The fashion here strongly reflects Nicolas Ghesquiere’s debutant Louis Vuitton collection. The higlighted collars, masculine jackets, v cuts, floral prints and tweed are all very, very 40’s.

Aah, Marlene Dietrich! The famous singer and actress, all-time fashion icon! Her flawless gowns and love to non-chalant fur is strongly visible in the moodboards of such designers like Jason Wu, Rodebjer and Ports 1961. In other words, lady-like, chic and effortless.

70’s Suits Come Back

August 13, 2014August 23, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marni

There are these awkward fashion moments, when ugly and kitsch things come back with a huge boom. Like for example the printed, colourful, so-70’s suits. Covered with flowers, veggies, twirls and other super optimistic patterns, the nightmare of kitsch appears more than once for Resort 2015. The kaleidoscope of loud, proud, floral and psychedelic print pantsuits by Miu Miu, Marni, Louis Vuitton and Mary Katrantzou will try to encourage us, to wear these the next spring. For now, I feel a bit scared. But we must be all brave.

Mary Katrantzou

Louis Vuitton

Miu Miu

#TBT: Kate and Christy for Louis Vuitton

July 3, 2014July 28, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Kate Moss and Christy Turlington captured by Inez & Vinoodh for Louis Vuitton’s campaign in 2000. Absolutely fabulous.

Men’s: Trend Report AW14

May 31, 2014December 23, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yohji Yamamoto

Boys, we are looking forward towards the new times of fashion! So arty, gloomy, grey and posh- the AW14 season is for all sorts of men. Here, look at the strong five trends that are going to rule in your fall wardrobe.

They were moody, not sombre, said Haider Ackermann about his new season clothes that were all about his Victorian poets, floor length coats swaying through the room and Tchaikovsky chart topper. The fresh mood of men fashion is about dandy gloom that is romantic and attractive. Comme des Garcons had this wet hair look that reminded of gothic ghosts and Philip Lim had some neo-Romantism in it. Do you get that?

Camel coat, camel jacket or a camel parka- whatever, Parisian men think of camel as men’s best-friend. It’s neutral, but looks perfect with sweatpants, leather over-sized pants or elegant trousers. I really want to steal Ami’s look, where the models wore camel with white Adidas and wool sweaters… maybe it’s slightly normcore, but you may still wear it as a cowboy like at Versace (see leather bag, crocodile gloves and fur covered motorcycle helmet)!

Grey is beautiful, moody and human. There is nothing better than a luxe, comfortable track suit from Christophe Lemaire or Louis Vuitton. The razor-sharp relaxdness kills me! Every man shows his different shade of grey. So the question is, which one are you?

Raf Simons designed a collection in collaboration with Sterling Ruby. He managed to connect two worlds, fashion and art, in men collection. And he nailed it. Just like my favourite Yohji Yamamoto with his manga themed leather garments! The contrasting prints, smart signs and colour splash is the perfect way to kill normcore (normal hardcore) and be the men of art (and fashion).

This one is strange. And ugly in my opinion. But at the same time, takes men to a new dimension of uniformism- utilitarian vests Prada and Rick Owens; reconstructed and constructed coats at Maison Martin Margiela… this season brings more than excepted to men fashion. And which trend is in your type most?

Fanaberie. Louis Vuitton Resort’15

May 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Nicolas Ghesquiere stays for good at Louis Vuitton- his latest collection was a first ever Resort collection presented on the runway. And as you surely know, it was in Monaco. The collection itself was a mash-up. The fabrics were mixed up (lace with knitwear), the colours were very radiant and vibrant and it all felt sweet and tasty. Ghesquière is still liking the fit-and-flare silhouette he introduced for Fall, but there was more diversity on the runway tonight. High-waisted, slightly flaring trousers will stir memories for fans of the leg-elongating pants he used to make at Balenciaga; on the other hand, embroidered slips with scalloped hems were among the least structured things he’s ever done. And because this was a Resort collection—in stores longer than any other season—the show ran the gamut, from a sheared fur coat to jersey T-shirt dresses. The handbag offering has grown, as well: The Petite Malle now comes with a chain handle, and he’s added a new, wide-mouthed bucket bag. In my opinion, it’s still not the fullest of what is hidden in Nicolas talent- but the collection has its strong points I like.

About the artist: Yves Klein was a French artist considered an important figure in post-war European art. He is the leading member of the French artistic movement of Nouveau réalisme founded in 1960 by art critic Pierre Restany. Klein was a pioneer in the development of Performance art, and is seen as an inspiration to and as a forerunner of Minimal art, as well as Pop art.