December 18: Natalie Westling is a model phenomen- this girl can skate in her home-state, Arizona, and at the same time walk for Marc Jacobs during fashion week. Isn’t this great? Natalie is the perfect example that a model is not always only a model, but a great, cool and smart personality. Another Magazine, Willy Vanderperre.
The Aussie girl, Kym Ellery, does sculptural beauty this time in Paris. The collection is so, so breath-taking. It has so much movement, flair, boldness… the materials used are so gorgeous, that the amazing over-sized ribbons look super effortless and wearable. Ellery always masters best the fun with fabrics- in their Paris-based studio, the real magic happens, making their collection better and better each season. Ellery had two main emphases: creating a lean, attenuated silhouette, and elaborating it with rich textures. The opening look established the theme: a pair of extra-long tweed trousers topped with a mesh undershirt and matching tweed singlet. The singlet had a buoyant flare, but this was a more measured take on the sculptural volumes Ellery has explored in the past. The tailoring was a highlight—lots of great pants—and the shirting, too, done in heavy-duty cottons with a touch of sheen. Ellery also scored with her long, almost monastic tank dresses, which kicked out under the hip. Serene but with a vibrant atmosphere in the air.
Wet. The models were literally wet during the Maison Martin Margiela show. What else felt “wow” in this collection? Hand-painted daisies on skirts and over-sized sunglasses. And the print mash-up with oriental kimono-like cut-outs. What was the idea, motif of the idea? No idea. But it felt attractive, a bit perverse and very mysterious. It feels elusive and totally Margiela.
Being Rochas woman nowadays might be hard- work, children, time for a nap. And the brand is known for it’s non-chalance and avantgarde. But this summer, Alessandro Dell Acqua made a little bit easier. Although we’ve got the super couture embroideries and lots of sheer beauty, there is a new way of being Rochas- wear socks with one of their confetti sling-back pumps! They are gorgeous. Just like the logo-matic R on the blouses and dresses. But for those who feel like dressing up in mostly couture level, there are those breath-taking gowns with tulle, embellished flowers and ribbons… or skirts with crotchet knits… or one of those floral coats… In other words, Dell Acqua brought us lots of different options. And the sheer elements are like magic. As for his second collection for Rochas, mister Alessandro really feels the Rochas spirit.
Aah, those Italian summers, where you simply swim the pool, sunbathe with a favourite book and visit those small, cozy villages… Stella Jean, the designer coming from Hawaii, which is based in Milan, really brought the Mediterrean sun to all of us in her latest collection for summer. The emerging star of MFW brings up odd silhouttes of her signature, strongly printed skirts and over-sized t-shirts, giving us the heat of Sardinia in one of the capes and beauty of Corsica in another dress. With the prints painted on the clothes, the collection feels very Stella Jean and very, very appropriate for hot summer! Instantly in love!
Design & Culture by Ed 