Luca Magliano

Luca Magliano’s move from Milan to Paris provided the French capital with a much-needed counterweight to this season’s near-perfect menswear consensus, dominated by ideas of “good taste” and proper style. Magliano has always sought beauty in chaos and imperfection, and that ethos remained central. What the designer has long described as an “elegance of the provinces” – a defining signature of the brand – was reimagined here beyond geography, recast as a state of mind, a posture, and a way of seeing fashion.

The collection was rooted in Magliano’s characteristically slouchy tailoring but brought to life through gesture and movement. One of its guiding impulses was the desire to arrest cinematic motion within the garment itself: coats sliced with organza at face level that, when worn, looked unfamiliar, yet absolutely real. This tension between structure and fluidity embodied what Magliano has described as tailoring at its most romantic. His ongoing method of softening formality for those uneasy with it remained intact, as did the brand’s enduring proposition: classic, yet unapologetically queer.

Beyond delivering one of the strongest menswear collections of the autumn–winter 2026 season, the Italian designer also presented one of its most compelling castings, assembling a diverse array of real faces to model his patinated, decadently chic garments.

ED’s SELECTION:

Magliano Men’s Pinstripe Wool-Blend Two-Button Jacket

Magliano Men’s Lyocell Peoples Pleated Wide-Leg Pants

Magliano Men’s Lungomare Double-Breasted Overcoat

Magliano Men’s Signature Wool Double-Pleat Pants

Magliano Men’s Graphic-Print Long-Sleeve Button-Front Shirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe.

Magliano is the much-needed antidote to Milan Fashion Week’s gloss and perfectionism. LVMH Prize-winning Luca Magliano does clothes that are functional but at the same time poetically deep. The designer channels a kind of wrong and cramped beauty. In his charming spring-summer 2025 fashion shows, street-casted models sported romantic shirts with asymmetrical closures and folded trousers revealing waistline measurements. Printed, washed denim and faux fading, along with well-worn peacoats in towel-like fabrics, add a touch of artisanship to the offer. Note the striking pops of bubblegum pink, just to balance all that grittiness. The collection is honest in its simplicity, driving expertise through unexpected materials and retro silhouettes pulled into the present with precision.