Fluidity. Jil Sander Pre-Fall 2020

Lucie and Luke Meier‘s vision for Jil Sander is all about soft, tactile minimalism (which occasionally lets some eclecticism in). For pre-fall 2020, the duo once again showed their appreciation for craft. A skirt suit was padded and stitched with an abstract floral motif, while an ensemble in soft pink satin had a luscious, almost liquid finish. Fluidity of the silhouette is a big topic for the Meiers – they continue to master it, creating refined, feminine, yet magically comfortable forms. Please do note the feminine lines of the décolletages, borrowed from corsetry and delicately lined with inconspicuous embroideries (see the high-waisted ruched slipdress). Art references are also crucial in their vision for Jil Sander. Recently, the designers have been fascinated by the Viennese Secession movement, extensively researching the work of Wiener Werkstätte’s artists like Josef Hoffmann, Koloman Moser, and the textile designer Maria Lucia Stadlmayer. Their aesthetics, which flourished at the juncture of Art Nouveau’s sensuality and Japonisme’s sophisticated restraint, clearly appealed to the Meiers. For pre-fall, Stadlmayer’s graphic patterns were reproduced in their original proportions and colors on sheer organza layers, juxtaposed over sharp-cut silk twill or silk jersey shirts, skirts, and tunics, inducing a slightly kinetic, blurred chromatic effect. “We used the motifs on their authentic scale, because you have permission from the archives in Vienna to reproduce them only in the exact proportions and colors she intended to use,” they said. “We really cared about keeping the integrity of the design; we didn’t want to appropriate them in the wrong way.”

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Craft. Jil Sander SS20

Lucie and Luke Meier have already proven throughout their time at Jil Sander that its more than a white shirt and a pair of black pants to them. Their vision of the brand is all about soft, tender, warm minimalism with a bit of edginess. For springs-summer 2020, the couple decided to experiment with craftsmanship, which had its ups and downs in the collection. The over-sized tailoring, pleated dresses and boxy shirt printed with an abstract landscape were the most convincing to me, while being the least risky in the line-up. Long silk tunics embroidered with sequins in the shapes of birds over narrow trousers was my another favourite. However, the natural raffia detailing that dominated the last looks felt unneeded, even forced, and it obscured the gorgeous, flowing silhouettes the Meiers are so good at.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Elongated and Lean. Jil Sander Resort 2020

What Lucie and Luke Meier do at Jil Sander is so, so beautifully balanced and considered. Their resort 2020 look-book is one of their best collections to date, and they prove their comprehension of the brand’s heritage in every aspect, from impeccable tailioring to feminimine-slash-minimalist day-wear. “The silhouette is very elongated, very lean,” one of the designers mentioned to the press. “It follows the body line, but then it breaks with a playful gesture, like tying something around the waist, be it a belt, a sweater, or a leather waist bag. Trying to convey a sense of lightness and movement.” Also, I really love the element of nature that reappears in Meier’s collection season-to-season. Raffia-crocheted skirt and straw basket bags are one way to approach plastic-free, eco-friendly fashion. Tie-dye Shibori techniques, used as decorative elements on over-sized cotton shirtdresses, blouses and skirst, are artisan handworks that need no chemicals in production. Big yes to everything this collection delivers.

Collages by Edward Kanarecki.

The Want: Jil Sander’s Sandals

The Want: Lucie and Luke Meier‘s spring-summer 2019 collection for Jil Sander was a subtle nod to Japan’s love for clean lines and minimalism in general. The fusbett slide in super-soft nappa built on an ayous clog lightened with cork might look tricky at a first glance. But imagine how these shoes will elevate every single outfit you wear this summer.

Photo by Edward Kanarecki.

Jil Sander in Berlin

You actually start to love Lucie and Luke Meier‘s Jil Sander when you see the clothes (and bags!) in the store. The brand’s boutique in Berlin, designed by Andrea Tognon (the same architect who did the Phoebe Philo-era Celine stores) is a true slice of heaven. Each detail feels as tactile, balanced and beautiful in its simplicity as the garments on the hangers.

Kurfürstendamm 185 / Berlin

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.