Co-founded by Molly Molloy, Kristin Forss and Lucinda Chambers, Colville – the London/Milan-based brand – is independent, off-kilter and too cool for the traditional fashion industry. Colville is the creative encounter between three different minds and three personal points of view. The trio have worked together at Marni, while Chambers was Consuelo Castiglioni’s longtime stylist and is famous for her sense for eclectic layering. Their spring-summer 2020 collection involved working collaboratively with a Colombian women’s group on charming woven bags, and they’re sourcing vintage silk scarves and old shell jackets from the ’90s and turning them into graceful dresses and sleeved shrugs. Social responsibility and upcycling are buzzwords that fashion companies use as their marketing ploy. But for Colville, this isn’t a trend. Molloy, Forss, and Chambers are really, truly close to the product. Those are clothes to be worn, cherished, mixed and matched. Clothes that are bold and brave, considered and careful, sensitive and detailed. Colville designer have a soft point for bold floral prints and off-kilter silhouettes (if you worked with Castiglioni, that’s an inheritable trait), like an upside-down shirt whose sleeves drape below the hips and a trompe l’oeil skirt that looks like a folded-over dress. The collection as well features amazing raincoats made from boat sails. Keep this brand on your radar next season, if you’re looking for truly sustainable, bold fashion.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
August is the moment in fashion to discover brands, or at least, refresh your memory on names you haven’t looked at for a while. Colville isn’t this new on the block, but honestly I haven’t had a look at the label since its debut more a year ago. And I’ve got to tell you one thing: it’s doing more than fine. Co-founded by Molly Molloy, Kristin Forss and Lucinda Chambers (whose Instagram-diary is my must-follow), the London-based brand is independent, off-kilter and too cool for the fashion industry. Colville is the creative encounter between three different minds and three personal points of view. A sum, not a mix. The irregular and the imperfect put-together are integral to the outcome: a collection that’s a sum of pieces, that is eclectic and idiosyncratic. Those are clothes to be worn, cherished, mixed and matched. Clothes that are bold and brave, considered and careful, sensitive and detailed. Clothes that are real: addends to a lasting discourse. As the brand’s manifesto says, Colville pieces can be assembled, disassembled, reassembled, following individual whims. It’s about putting the unexpected together. Not one way to wear it, but as many as there are viewpoints. The autumn-winter 2019 collection is just that: a play with proportions, shapes, prints. Fitting together like an imperfect jigsaw puzzle: clashing colors, unlikely partnerships of textures, a touch of craft, tailoring and flou. From the nomad-kind of layers and winter shawls to grungy-meets-hippie knits and florals, you want to have those garments and make them your reality.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Taken from Alexandra Schulman’s final issue of British Vogue, this editorial has an extremely sentimental meaning. How ‘aristocrat-gone-nomad’ is it? I think that’s what Englishness in fashion is all about – off-kilter in a Stella Tennant way and defiant in a Vivienne Westwood manner. I think that as the editor-in-chief, Schulman understood and embraced that perfectly, just like the fashion editor Lucinda Chambers, who has abruptly departured from her Vogue position a month ago (if you STILL haven’t read that candid essay, here you go). See it for yourself.
Publication: Vogue UK September 2017 Model: Nora Attal, Elfie Reigate Photographer: Mario Testino Fashion Editor: Lucinda Chambers Hair: Sam McKnight Make Up: Val Garland