Craft. Jil Sander SS20

Lucie and Luke Meier have already proven throughout their time at Jil Sander that its more than a white shirt and a pair of black pants to them. Their vision of the brand is all about soft, tender, warm minimalism with a bit of edginess. For springs-summer 2020, the couple decided to experiment with craftsmanship, which had its ups and downs in the collection. The over-sized tailoring, pleated dresses and boxy shirt printed with an abstract landscape were the most convincing to me, while being the least risky in the line-up. Long silk tunics embroidered with sequins in the shapes of birds over narrow trousers was my another favourite. However, the natural raffia detailing that dominated the last looks felt unneeded, even forced, and it obscured the gorgeous, flowing silhouettes the Meiers are so good at.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Elongated and Lean. Jil Sander Resort 2020

What Lucie and Luke Meier do at Jil Sander is so, so beautifully balanced and considered. Their resort 2020 look-book is one of their best collections to date, and they prove their comprehension of the brand’s heritage in every aspect, from impeccable tailioring to feminimine-slash-minimalist day-wear. “The silhouette is very elongated, very lean,” one of the designers mentioned to the press. “It follows the body line, but then it breaks with a playful gesture, like tying something around the waist, be it a belt, a sweater, or a leather waist bag. Trying to convey a sense of lightness and movement.” Also, I really love the element of nature that reappears in Meier’s collection season-to-season. Raffia-crocheted skirt and straw basket bags are one way to approach plastic-free, eco-friendly fashion. Tie-dye Shibori techniques, used as decorative elements on over-sized cotton shirtdresses, blouses and skirst, are artisan handworks that need no chemicals in production. Big yes to everything this collection delivers.

Collages by Edward Kanarecki.

The Want: Jil Sander’s Sandals

The Want: Lucie and Luke Meier‘s spring-summer 2019 collection for Jil Sander was a subtle nod to Japan’s love for clean lines and minimalism in general. The fusbett slide in super-soft nappa built on an ayous clog lightened with cork might look tricky at a first glance. But imagine how these shoes will elevate every single outfit you wear this summer.

Photo by Edward Kanarecki.

Jil Sander in Berlin

You actually start to love Lucie and Luke Meier‘s Jil Sander when you see the clothes (and bags!) in the store. The brand’s boutique in Berlin, designed by Andrea Tognon (the same architect who did the Phoebe Philo-era Celine stores) is a true slice of heaven. Each detail feels as tactile, balanced and beautiful in its simplicity as the garments on the hangers.

Kurfürstendamm 185 / Berlin

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Stable. Jil Sander AW19

The pursuit after ‘new Céline’ is getting intense, and people say Jil Sander might be the right candidate to fill the gap. But the brand’s designers – Lucie and Luke Meier – aren’t copying Phoebe Philo, and have no intentions to. They do their thing, with Jil Sander’s soft minimalist spirit in mind. The Meiers’ vision of the brand is consistent since their debut few seasons ago. Tailoring with relaxed fit, comfortable, big bags, earthy colour palette with eventual splashes of pastel. This season, the couple nailed the topic of dresses. Whether we’re speaking of a loosely fitted chemise or an ankle-length black gown, it’s the sensual v-neck cut that feels refreshing about them. Jil Sander’s fashion was minimal, true, but simultaneously feminine – that’s a statement the Meiers highlight every season to end the stereotype of cold, stern image the brand got drowned in. Still, a scarf would be more than welcome for all those revealing cuts, since it’s an autumn-winter collection. Wait, we’ve got a duvet jacket – every brand has one this season – that will keep you warm. Jil Sander is stable – it doesn’t ‘wow’ you, true, but the collections please with their well-balanced content. I think it’s in good hands. 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.