Dreams. Thom Browne SS18

Thom Browne‘s debut womenswear show in Paris suggests one thing: sometimes, one collection is better than dozens of other designer line-ups. With his unique, artistic sensitivity for couture-ish ready-to-wear, Browne’s collections are not just about fancy dresses – they are entire spectacles, modern-day fairy-tales. For spring-summer 2018, the New York-based designer had “two girls dreaming of unicorns and mermaids, and all the things that little girls dream of” as initial point of departure. Indeed, there was an all-white unicorn on the runway, ‘worn’ by two models. A mermaid has also appeared, wearing a plaid coat and intricately embellished gown. But there were also fairies wearing feather-trimmed jackets, mischievous captain ladies, haunted widows and a Goddess of sun. There was something of a magical and mystical narration in the collection. It’s rare to have a walking skeleton (no, not printed, but delightfully embellished) in your fashion show. Or see a dress with an attached, silk octopus sculpture on the back, with its tentacles covering the model’s body. Another look was spun from spongy clouds of tulle, that trailed behind the model like sea-foam, as she walked down the runway.

I see no obstacles to call this is the most phenomenal collection of this Paris fashion week. Or even, of the entire season. I’m bewitched.

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Collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Interview with Meo Fusciuni

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Who is Meo Fusciuni? A perfume magician, I might say. A herbist, which understands human emotions. A bold character, which pours olfactory memories into a bottle of fragrance. And, guess what – he’s starring in our May interview. So take a sit and feel chilled out while reading this beautifully poetic post…

What inspires you most while creating new perfumes?
“Our collection tells our life, our travels, our poetry and all that life hides every day. At this time, after creating the trilogy of travel and the cycle of poetry, I am facing the triptych of mysticism and therefore after Narcotico follow two other works inspired by the mystical human and beyond. At first I decide only the theme of each project, but then it is the case, the life and the dream to dictate my path and construction of each olfactory scent, it is important to continue to seek, in yourself and in the journey, both in the physical and spiritual world; to create and think of a new scent is the delicate moment for me, where my sensitivity to each event is very strong, are very intense moments of listening, about the smells and the emotions I feel. Passed this stage very poetic, Federica and I begin to translate this work in material and images, to tell the world about the new job.”

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How do you pour in different memories and moments of your life into a bottle of perfume?
“It is a process that at the beginning of my journey I did not know , but after has become a natural process, now, all times in my life, I try first of all to recall a perfume, a smell. I’m not a classic “nose”, I am a chemist and herbalist doctor, with a very strong passion for anthropology and aromatherapy, the plants was for me only therapy for the body and man’s mind, but today has become a conduit for the dream. So what was very strange for me has become normal, enclose memory life in a brown bottle of perfume. I’m just at the beginning of my journey and I still have so many things and secrets to discover in my work, in life I love research, always.”

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Do you agree that the language of smell is one of the strongest of all?
“I agree with you. Unfortunately, the sense of smell is the least developed sense in humans, but I think it is the most mysterious. The olfactory memory belongs to everyone and it is wonderful to think that the same perfume can cause a person a nice way and another a negative feeling, the path of our memory is closely related to the smell and the sense of smell, about this we work together  the University of Psychology of Bologna about this a very interesting project, telling the connection between smell and memory, between scent and our whole life, as a room full of pictures.”

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As a “perfume magician” and professional herbist, do you think that a specific smell can be an aphrodisiac?
I never thought of creating an aphrodisiac perfume and ever I decided to create fragrances for men or women, all our work is oriented without sex. I think the sensuality of a perfume I belong to the person wearing it, but if I have to give a name in my collection is Notturno, because his metamorphosis on the skin is very sensual and mysterious.

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Can you tell us a bit more about your latest best-seller, Narcotico?
Narcotic is the first chapter in the cycle of mysticism, is a much important because it marks my transition to the use of raw materials very strong. It’s a very emotional work, tells about our connection with the sacred and the memory of the emotion most intimate of each of us. Born in the streets and in the churches of Palermo, it’s a physical and mental journey through holy places and transfigured the smell, of the human soul. A scent full of meaning, a scent that becomes ritual and in its evolution smell is very mysterious and should be listened quietly, leaving him speak…

Meo Fusciuni are available at Concept 21 Store.

Fantasy. Thom Browne SS15

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After you see Thom Browne’s collection, you totally forget about normcore, practical clothing and slouch dressing. Ignoring the trends and tendencies, Thom always does something magical in his shows. This time, we went to a magical forest party, where everything is full of bloom and colour. Out of the shark tooth tweed, colourful feathers are “growing” out. Flowers are simply evolving from the signature TB handbags, and different beautiful things happen on the long gowns… this magnificent performance/presentation is definitely a NYFW’s highlight. Thom Browne, you always stay the same Enfant Terrible of fashion. Hope you will never change!

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Glitter Puke Magic

green-monster-shoe-vogue-19nov13_b-1 I think I will puke with glitter. This Meadham Kirchhoff for Topshop collection is so… so very Meadham Kirchhoff. Just ten times cheaper and uglier. The young designer duo from London that are famous for sexy Bavarian / Dracula dresses and monster fur jackets, just lauched the worst collection. Ever. For Topshop. Definitely London-it-girls will wear it… but every fashionista who loves playing games with fashion, certainly are going to lose the level.
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Tuscany: Fendi Magic

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The Fendi boutique located in Florence is not only fool of beautiful furs and spiky shoes, but it is also a great design space. All the ceilings are original from times when the place was one of the rich palaces in center of the city. Greatly renovated, it is now decorated with a Milanese designer with massive, colourful chandelier. But it is not a crystal chandelier, but made of… Plastic! What do you think about it? I love this kind of interior mixes… It is superb!

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