Magliano

Decadence. Magliano AW26

| Design & Culture by Ed

Luca Magliano’s move from Milan to Paris provided the French capital with a much-needed counterweight to this season’s near-perfect menswear consensus, dominated by ideas of “good taste” and proper style. Magliano has always sought beauty in chaos and imperfection, and that ethos remained central. What the designer has long described as an “elegance of the provinces” – a defining signature of the brand – was reimagined here beyond geography, recast as a state of mind, a posture, and a way of seeing fashion.

The collection was rooted in Magliano’s characteristically slouchy tailoring but brought to life through gesture and movement. One of its guiding impulses was the desire to arrest cinematic motion within the garment itself: coats sliced with organza at face level that, when worn, looked unfamiliar, yet absolutely real. This tension between structure and fluidity embodied what Magliano has described as tailoring at its most romantic. His ongoing method of softening formality for those uneasy with it remained intact, as did the brand’s enduring proposition: classic, yet unapologetically queer.

Beyond delivering one of the strongest menswear collections of the autumn–winter 2026 season, the Italian designer also presented one of its most compelling castings, assembling a diverse array of real faces to model his patinated, decadently chic garments.

ED’s SELECTION:


Magliano Men’s Pinstripe Wool-Blend Two-Button Jacket



Magliano Men’s Lyocell Peoples Pleated Wide-Leg Pants



Magliano Men’s Lungomare Double-Breasted Overcoat



Magliano Men’s Signature Wool Double-Pleat Pants



Magliano Men’s Graphic-Print Long-Sleeve Button-Front Shirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe.

Cramped Beauty. Magliano SS25

| Design & Culture by Ed

Magliano is the much-needed antidote to Milan Fashion Week’s gloss and perfectionism. LVMH Prize-winning Luca Magliano does clothes that are functional but at the same time poetically deep. The designer channels a kind of wrong and cramped beauty. In his charming spring-summer 2025 fashion shows, street-casted models sported romantic shirts with asymmetrical closures and folded trousers revealing waistline measurements. Printed, washed denim and faux fading, along with well-worn peacoats in towel-like fabrics, add a touch of artisanship to the offer. Note the striking pops of bubblegum pink, just to balance all that grittiness. The collection is honest in its simplicity, driving expertise through unexpected materials and retro silhouettes pulled into the present with precision.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

NET-A-PORTER Limited

Characters. Magliano AW24

| Design & Culture by Ed

Luca Magliano is the name that finally shakes up the term “emerging designer” in case of Italian fashion – which has always been monopolized by the hegemony of big brands. Being the guest designer at Florence’s Pitti Uomo, Magliano presented a collection that delivered the true, uncompromising essence of the brand: poetic, heavy-on-tailoring clothes with a punk spirit at heart. Characters – not just models – swathed in gray, mud and sage green garments strode the long staircase used as a runway at the Nelson Mandela Forum. What stood out the most was the layering which in case of Magliano goes to extremes and carries a certain sense of fluidity: a varsity jacket worn over a too-long chunky sweater, an over-sized Armani-esque jacket topping a billow-y shirt and voluminous cargo pants, a plum, buttoned cardigan styled as cape over a black boucle coat… the list of outfit-sandwiches goes on and on. What else makes this brand so different comparing to the gloss and perfectionism of Italian runways is the styling that feels spontaneous and utterly authentic. Autumn-winter 2024 hero look: the silver fox model in sequined pants and a cat-bearing fuzzy sweater, plus unexpected accessories: a what seems to be plastic grocery bag and velvet slippers in burgundy. It’s just the beginning of menswear fashion month, but this look already seems to be one of my ultimate favorites of the season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

NET-A-PORTER Limited