HC: Masacarade. Maison Martin Margiela AW14

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“It enriches, it dresses, it decorates” was the quote, as Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal once again sought out a vision of haute couture that is wholly idiosyncratic to the house. Having cherry-picked the finest textiles from 18th century French lampas silks to Japanese 50s silk bomber jackets, MMM lavished hours of embroidery and embellishment work on top so that you can’t distinguish what was found and what was created. Again, thing that were lost were again found, things old were new and thing ugly again were beautiful. Although, I must say, it all looked like a mascarade ball. And veils were all about faberge eggs, Kanye!

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Men’s: Perverse. Maison Martin Margiela SS15

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Jeans mixed with sweatpants; coat worn with a sweater (without anything else under, except tattoos); artisanal embroideries taped all over the torso. That was possibly one of the most elusive and difficult to understand collection served by Maison Martin Margiela. But you could be sure of one thing: nothing had one sense. Even these orange coats or wool, brown socks worn with sneakers.

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