We’re entering Sabato De Sarno‘s third season at Gucci, but nothing has really changed since his debut. His menswear collections are slightly more persuasive than womenswear, but the spring-summer 2025 attempt largely feels like a Prada by Miuccia and Raf afterthought. The clothes are repeating: same over-sized coats, work-jackets and shirts return to the runway a couple of times, just in different colors and prints, as if De Sarno really believed they are reinventing the wheel. There are bits of kinky sprinkles that somehow add at least some flavor to the designer’s menswear – like leather briefs and fishnet tops – but that’s not enough to make a statement. The brand keeps on bringing up “emotions” in its communication, but I still feel nothing looking at De Sarno’s design. Believe me, I took myself to a Gucci store in search for all these “big feelings“, but these clothes don’t speak to me even IRL.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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