Show Girl. Nina Ricci SS18

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Honestly, I really can’t understand why other fashion critics heavily underrate or slam Guillaume Henry‘s work at Nina Ricci. I think what he does at the heritage French maison  looks extremely exquisite and at the same time isn’t too obvious. Even if we’re talking about a military-inspired jacket that had a moment at the Les Invalides fashion show. The collection started calmly: there was an ecru coat with extra-large shoulders styled with, yes, biker shorts. To a surprise of many, it ended with a vivid splash of radiant pink and eye-catching yellow. The most remarkable looks were all about feathers – from head-pieces to mini-dresses – and had something of a chic, Belle Époque inspired show girl. If all the world’s a stage, fashion must be a circus (note that even the runway was under a festive tent). As for me, just let Guillaume have a blast.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

HC: Slavic. Valentino SS15

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Wow. I am moved. Valentino did a collection totally dedicated to Slavic culture and heritage. I definitely see so many Eastern Europpean accents – cubic prints inspired with  Marc Chagall; Polish ethno dresses; romantic embroidery; warm and and charming textiles. Chagall, in particular, captivated Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo Piccioli. “He had an incredible life, very hard, but he maintained his optimistic vision,” Piccioli said. The painter’s Belarussian origins provided a leitmotif for the embellishments that are so central to the designers’ aesthetic – bold, but with a toned touch. If talking of romance, Valentino also made hair decorated with real flowers – that was a cherry on the top of the cake. So, a Slavic person, I approve this collection.

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