New York Fashion Week may officially be over, but that didn’t stop one of it most beloved showmen from unveiling a surprise new collection on Instagram. What’s New York’s fashion scene without Marc Jacobs? The 10 look line-up (which will be available exclusively at Bergdorfs), is essentially a glamorous reworking of Marc’s remarkable autumn-winter 2021, with their grand silhouettes slashed into new skin-baring forms, cargo pants transformed into sweeping statement skirts, and brilliant paillette embellishments wrapped into something stunningly new. The collection came up quite spontaneously. As Jacobs avoided the phygital fashion and virtual shows which largely defined this industry through 2020 and 2021, he instead waited until he had the potential of a live runway to create a collection for. “We were like, ‘we’re not showing until we can do a show the way we show,’” Marc told I-D. “But then, this time, me and Joseph [Carter, from his design team] and Alastair (McKimm, Marc’s collaborator) decided that we were going to make some clothes. And we were going to photograph them.” In result, this new collection appears exceptionally impactful, something of a deeply desirable dystopian fantasy. “We played with the clothes that we made before in order to make other, new clothes,” he explained. So paillette pieces were slashed and wrapped into new apparitions, while a denim jacket draped on the body to become a fabulous sculpted stole. Couture-level deconstruction, something the designer is obsessed with lately. “There was this word that kept going around early on in the process: elevate,” Marc laughed. “‘It has to be elevated, it has to be elevated.’ I looked it up in the dictionary – and to elevate has two definitions. Firstly: to raise or lift something up to a higher position, and secondly: to raise to a more important or impressive level.” He managed to tap into both meanings with this mind-blowing offering, as we can see.
There are those collections in fashion history that just get better with time. For a while now, I’m absolutely obsessed with Louis Vuitton‘s autumn-winter 2010 – one of the best collections created by Marc Jacobs for the French maison. “And God Created Woman” announced the program, bringing up thoughts of the era of the young Bardot, of fifties-sixties wasp waists, and circle skirts. At the time, Mad Men was on everyone’s minds and TV screens (those were the pre-Netflix times…), and that same season, Miuccia Prada also went for the retro ultra-femininity. Jacobs’ collection was stark contrast casting-wise (lets not forget 2010 was peak time of the super-skinny-model standard) as the designer called on Laetitia Casta, Bar Refaeli, Catherine McNeil, Karolina Kurkova, and finally Elle Macpherson, all women whose physical attributes have acted as a disqualification for fashion show participation for years. The rehabilitation of the embonpoint was done with refinement. Marc framed it more as a fresh, feminine, ingenue look, with hair scraped back into high, bouncy B.B. ponytails; clean makeup; and square-toed, block-heeled pumps trimmed with flat bows. The show swung along prettily as a fountain sprayed and jolly fifties movie music played in the middle of the tented courtyard, creating that quintessentially Parisian atmosphere, a sense of all being right in the best of all possible cities to be appreciated as a woman. Not only the lady-like silhouette was the main focus – the charming details and trimmings exemplified the LV knack for classy detail, as in fur buttons, collars and glittery heels. I sometimes really miss Marc’s Louis Vuitton…
And just like that, this is my last festive shopping guide of the year! Fabulous and bold winter scarves, hats, and gloves are always a no-fail idea. After all, we all wish for a white Christmas, and what better gift is one you can use right away. For immediate satisfaction, let her unwrap COS’ classic cashmere scarf or JW Anderson’s wooly teddy mittens. However, the must-have winter wear of the season is sure to be a colourful, statement sweater – The Elder Statesman, Christopher John Rogers and Loro Piana are brands to go for!
What to buy for the homebody? As the temperature dips, our homes become more important than ever. And for the homebody, this means a renewed commitment to all things hygge – with a focus on those everyday luxuries that make staying indoors ever more chic. At the top of her wishlist is undoubtedly a unique tracksuit that is polished yet practical. Tactility is key – so button-up cardigans, socks and blankets will tick all the right boxes, while a pair of shearling mules from Molly Goddard will delight. Here’s the “take it easy”, last-minute festive guide.
Between the Christmas holidays and the New Year’s Eve, and all the celebrations this festive season holds, you’ll likely need a bold party outfit – or two. If the autumn-winter 2021 runways were any indication, the time has arrived to get dressed up to the nines. So what better opportunity to wear the season’s most opulent prints, luxe textures, and, of course, exquisite sequins and shine? Here is a selection of festive evening dresses and spectacular gowns, jaw-dropping heels and charming bags, and magnificent jewels that will work as amazing holiday presents!