Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs’s spring-summer 2016 show was actually really about fashion. It was so over-the-top and so good, that I just don’t know where to start from. So let me make a list of things that I am still obsessed with.

Location – This season Marc Jacobs took us to the “Hollywood of New York”. The entire fashion show was staged at the location of Ziegfeld Theatre on West 54th Street. The velvet details of the theater matched the eclectic mood of the collection precisely – glamour and chic shouted from every corner of this magical place…

Model Casting – Marc Jacobs and Anita Bitton of Establishment NY always choose the most interesting faces. Molly Bair, Lineisy Montero, Karly Loyce, Varya Shutova, Alice Metza and many more walked the show, representing diversity and beauty. But also, Marc’s all time favourites wore these opulent gowns – Guinevere Van Seenus , Karen Elson and, yes, even Beth Ditto attended the show, slaying it.

Fashion – As I mentioned before, this show seemed to be the most fashion-thinking of all during NYFW. I won’t hide it – this season was mostly about slip dresses and minimal outfits. And while everybody seemed to be revising their own signatures, Marc Jacobs truly let his imagination take over the reigns – all these silhouettes, the detailings, the whole Old Hollywood inspiration. Cinched waists and exaggerated shoulders, flared sleeves and full cut trousers, pussy bows and neck chokers, glitter and lamé were all here. Beautiful and strongly missed splendour came back to fashion on a massive scale.

Embroidery – All kinds of embellishments and applications were used in this collection. Through collaboration with Lessage studio in Paris, the evening gowns looked absolutely ethereal and highly dramatic. Matty Bovan and Amie Victoria Robertson worked on the prints, that were later on ebroidered onto the over-sized suits – their toothy and freckled characters gave the collection a humorous edge.

Uff. I am done. This collection was great, Marc! And a great ending for the pretty calm New York Fashion Week.

The 90’s. Aah. The free spirit. And grunge. These are the keywords that really make me think about this amazing era of creativity, defiance and a kind of “I don’t give a F word” attitude. Perry Ellis from 1994 is the perfect example. It was the collection that got Marc Jacobs fired from this American fashion house, which is currently slowly dying and becoming a forgotten brand. It was the show, idea, that made his career. With Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love in the newspapers and their music dominating both the radio and MTV, a 29-year-old Jacobs sent flannel shirts, printed granny dresses, Dr. Martens and knitted beanies down the runway. “Grunge is ghastly,” Suzy Menkes declared later in her fashion show report, and Jacobs indeed lost his job, but this was one show that the critics and the Perry Ellis company definitely got wrong. In other words, to those who think Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent is innovative – as you, he is not.