Marc Jacobs
Girl in Uniform. Marc Jacobs SS15
As usually, making his show last during New York fashion week, Marc Jacobs does the biggest twist, showing whose the king of New York. Last season, Jacobs put clouds all around the huge hall. And now, for summer, we’ve got a… pink house. Yes! Was it a psychedelic vision of daily routine? Or something random? Or maybe something connected to peace? That would tell us what the big military trend do at the show! Khaki bomb dresses, sweatpants, huge pockets, backpacks (which are so Prada inspired!) and the universal black wigs of the models, which made the viewer concentrate on clothing. But all that cold atmosphere was made slightly sweet, with those little flowers painted on the over-sized tops. As usually, Marc Jacobs shows us something unusual (even the fact that he came back to the military trend means SOMETHING) and philosophical. And that was pretty it, if talking of NYFW, folks!
What’s Hot (2.9.14)
The Best of AW14
My number one this season is Haider Ackermann. His beautiful fall was dark, elusive and very Parisienne. Models wore masculine coats and trousers, slim maxi dresses, over-sized shirts and leather jackets. This collection is the quintessence of chic.
Celine had the cool non-chalance in it. Phoebe Philo brought us fur muffs, kimonos, over-sized tunics and sleek coats, making the collection extremely casual with these fabulous, patent leather clogs. As usually, it’s one of my favourites.
Tibi from New York had the best ponchos of the season! Styled with black mules, Amish hats and black midi skirt, the label had one of the most great looks in the whole season. And many other pieces are still having a spotlight…
Dries Van Noten was all about stripes, colour and florals. It had a lot of coolness in it- a midi skirt worn with a orange skirt was never so interesting and sophisticated!
Miuccia Prada as usually brought Prada the most outstanding pieces of the season. Shearling jackets, cricket v-neck sweaters, Bauhaus inspired heels, monkey fur dress, bags with chains… and many, many more.
I have a special place in my heart for that Acne collection. It’s fresh, Scandinavian vibe and tribal printed culottes are simply amazing. And of course the exaggerated hats! You want get a cold wearing one of them, that’s a sure thing!
Louis Vuitton has Nicolas Ghesquiere right now, and his debutant collection was simply it. 40’s & 60’s fashion come back with huge steps. And all these boots are a must-have, just like the Petit Malle clutches.
Yohji Yamamoto’s winter collection is the most unwearable and most fantastic of all. The cocoon coats with those hand painted manga illustration are not clothes any more, but art.
N.21 by Allesandro Dell Acqua was very Italian. It has three key pieces- a cozy, wool sweater, an embroidered, midi skirt and pointy polished flats. And nothing else.
The relaxed Marc Jacobs collection was my favourite from New York. It was all head in clouds, with these pastel colours, v-cuts, solemn and pale faces of models and Jessica Lange attitude.
These were my 10 favourite AW14 collections… and on the 4th, officially, the NYFW starts with SS15! Yay!
Magic in The Moonlight, so Marc Jacobs SS14.
After seeing Woody Allen’s new film entitled Magic in The Moonlight, one thing got stuck in my head – the costumes. Oh yeah, they were really, really gorgeous. The plot of the movie happened between the 20’s and 30’s, and it exactly showed the style and fashion that ruled back then. And definitely the SS14’s Marc Jacobs victoriana inspired collection was very into Auntie Vanessa’s embroidered green bloose and triangular hair-cut! I think it’s all very matchy… thoughts?
Design & Culture by Ed 