Frenchie. Paco Rabanne AW18

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The term ‘Parisian chic’ is tremendously polluted in today’s fashion. Yet still, Julien Dossena somehow makes it authentic. Not going too heavy on the brand’s signature chain-mail this time around, the designer of Paco Rabanne made Breton stripes look, yes, relevant. There was a trench coat. There was a beige turtleneck. There was a pair of straight blue jeans. While those might be basics, I bet Paco Rabanne will finally catch its customer the next season with these extremely simple, but honestly rare to find pieces. Of course, not everything about the autumn-winter 2018 collection was about Frenchie essentials. The eveningwear is incredibly good, with all the plastic sequins and metallics.

Dossena finds the proper balance.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Modern Softness. Paco Rabanne SS16

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Julien Dossena looked at the heritage of Paco Rabanne from a totally different side this season. It rather feels more him, than Rabanne. The collection is designed for a modern girl – however, it’s much more feminine than the built-up looks we’ve seen last season. The fresh, summer outing was all about the high-tech sportiness with a sense of casual sexiness. Baby doll dresses walked alongside motocross-influenced leathers; the graphical prints on tank-tops had the Native American feeling about them. Definitely, Julien introduced a more slouchy festival attitude to the brand, rather than continuing Rabanne’s futuristic strictness and rawness. The textiles are softer in comparison to the signature Paco chain-dresses and the woman reflecting the brand changed.

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NASA in Paris. Paco Rabanne SS15

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Julien Dossena is just the perfect match for Paco Rabanne. He really makes the brand breath with new life and energy! Very athletic, cosmic, modern- these are the words that do describe the SS15. Having a strong view on details (like bracelets or sci-fi embroideries), Julien and Marie Amelie Sauve did a great job with styling and model casting. Mica looked gorgeous in that knit; Amanda stole the show in that burgundy jacket; Natalie rocked the “shirt” dress. Think Olympic swimming pool, not Saint-Tropez, with color-blocking, contrast piping, daring cutouts, and skirts draped diagonally across the hips, exposing the pelvic bone on one side. They’ll require a phenomenal body to pull off, just as Rabanne’s did back in the day: 21st-century Jane Birkins and Françoise Hardys only. The mustang boots just gave the overall look a sharp, edgy vibe.

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Paco Rabanne, Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2015 Collection in Paris

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Paco Rabanne, Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2015 Collection in Paris

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Paco Rabanne, Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2015 Collection in Paris

Paco Rabanne, Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2015 Collection in Paris