Really, who didn’t play bed-sheets-couture dress-up, even once during the year of endless lockdowns? Those fabulous, voluminous duvet garments Francesco Risso offered in his Marni autumn-winter 2021 surely had this sort of stay-at-home-laziness origin. But this collection isn’t another mumbling about “fancy” home-wear. When fashion weeks went digital and wardrobes turned domestic, designers faced new pressures from the marketing machine. “People came to me saying, ‘It has to be digital savvy; it has to be digital friendly; it has to go through the screen,’” Francesco Risso recalled. “Fuck that.”Posed with designing his second Marni collection in Italian lockdown, he asked himself: how do we respond to times of continued separation? Do we surrender to a digital overthrow, or do we fight back with all the things cyberspace could never give us: the human hand, tactility, and the chemistry of nature? “To me, it’s been revelatory,” Risso told Vogue. Developed almost entirely by hand, the collection became a quest for understanding what triggers a romantic state of mind. He found his answer: “Life! Life is romantic. A life that allows for laughs, for positive thinking, and definitely not for abandoning the feeling of the hand that makes things.”His search materialized in the tongue-in-cheek transformation of the sportswear and loungewear codes of lockdown into real dressmaking, expressed in silhouettes informed by the classic silhouettes of haute couture. Inevitably, it generated a ladylike romanticism conveyed through Risso’s countercultural lens: a chic wrap was abstracted into a puffer cape, but retained its neat little plume trim; a mermaid skirt morphed with sweatpants; and tennis trainers sharpened into evening shoes. Paradoxically, Risso had started his search for romanticism by dyeing everything black. Wanting to witness the power of nature, he placed his all-black garments in the Marni courtyard, embellished them with real flowers, and watched the sun do its magic. “The corrosion made our prints,” he explained. Then, he took his tricks to the factories, girding himself with the patience needed to watch age-old dyeing techniques do their thing through the soak-dry-wait, soak-dry-wait ceremonies necessary. “It’s cathartic,” Risso said. “This patience has been romantic…not forcing it because it ‘has to be digital.’” Screened on Zoom, the presentation portrayed a familiar lockdown situation shot in Risso’s Milanese apartment. It turned into a salon show and culminated in the kind of lunch we are all looking forward to – with a performance by Mykki Blanco. “I hope we’re not going to forget all we’ve learned,” Risso said about the still abstract-sounding ‘reemergence’ that will sooner or later come. “It’s about narrowing things down and not wasting time and not making bullshit clothes. It’s about being more focused.”
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
For the starter: this gorgeous Khaite tulle gown in green!
This year, I’ve to embrace the spirit of coming together this holiday season and decided to create dream gift guides that might make it easier for you to go (and filter) through the festive season. Get ready for a selection of beautiful items that will spark joy and last for years. The ones that will certainly please one’s senses and deliver heavenly feelings. Treat your loved ones and yourself! Here’s the curated edit of the most covetable delights, for her, which are all about stay-at-home glamour!
Festive Red. Is there any other colour that says “It’s Christmas time!” with such confidence as red? As we wrap up 2020, now is the time to celebrate our loved ones and share tokens of gratitude with those who have enriched this tumultous year for us. Red is the colour of love and courage, and noting how difficult this year was, wear this colour and radiate with confidence, boldness and passion!
Treasure Chest. Looking for something extra special? Dazzling jewellery coming from hot, young talents will definitely work as a unique, one-of-a-kind gift. Precious!
Sophie Bille Brahe velvet jewellery box in blue, Sophie Bille Brahe velvet jewellery box in red, Mondo Mondo gold oyster earrings, Ashley Williams heart appliqué hair pins & Sunnei rubberized pink and gold earrings.
Cute Things. Sometimes we all want to feel like a child. Go for playful and fun if you feel like someone had an especially stressful time this year!
Princess of Wales Checks. Though her legacy extends far beyond fashion, Princess Diana is arguably the greatest fashion icon of the 20th century. Checks have always been affiliated with festive season, but this year, with The Crown‘s phenomenal fourth season focused on early days of Diana Spencer, I feel like we will all love this pattern even more. Remember, that Diana didn’t wear checks in a boring way, though! The bigger, off-kilter and colourful, the better.
Be Bold. NET-A-PORTER Global Buying Director Elizabeth von der Goltz says Christopher John Rogers is one of the designers to watch and embrace in 2020, and it’s easy to see why. Since launching his eponymous brand only a few seasons ago, the designer’s voluminous silhouettes, sharp tailoring and unabashed use of color have already earned him a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award. Rihanna, Ashley Graham and Michelle Obama are all fans. His clothes are made for wearing and celebrating!
Quality Time. How about making those holidays the most-pampered time of the year, as you stay at your home-made spa? Relax yourself with the finest skincare, scents and charming bling-blings…
Costa Brazil “Kaya” anti-aging face oil, Panconesi single earring, Mondo Mondo cardinal drop earrings, Diptyque “Feu De Bois” candle, Susanne Kaufmann antioxidant oil, Susanne Kaufmann body butter, Susanne Kaufmann bath oil, Susanne Kaufmann glow mask & Susanne Kaufmann enzyme peel.
Nouvelle Vague. How about a pinch of Parisian chic?
Modern Elegance. Need to set the bar high? Timeless elegance will score instant points with every style maven – whether we’re speaking of Rosie Assoulin‘s multi-functional knitwear or this charming Brock Collection dress. Also, Byredo‘s “Slow Dance” is a can’t-go-wrong gift!
Brock Collection bow-detailed silk-organza dress, Rosie Assoulin “Thousand In One Ways” convertible cable-knit sweater, Sophie Buhai classic earrings, Byredo “Slow Dance” fragrance, Simone Rocha beaded headband & Gucci ankle-strap platform pumps.
Like A Pearl. From top to toe – and waist to wrist – these are the modern-day, royal classics that will keep on giving, every time they are worn.
Miuccia Knows. Pretty much anything coming from Miuccia Prada is an investment pieces that’s always “in”. Prada and Miu Miu got lots to love this festive season for all the fans of quirky, yet feminine essentials!
She Wears Velvet. The 1990s revival means that velvet fashion is back for good. This sumptuous fabric can be elegant and luxurious, but it’s worth giving it a fashionable twist.
Refined. Lounging at its most sublime.
Fashion is Fashion! Go for wild non-chalance to shake 2020’s seriousness off. Play fantastic dress-up, even if the festive evening is spent in your living room. Getting dressed makes such a difference, it’s like an attitude-boost!
Saint Laurent polka-dot skirt, Dries Van Noten cropped jacket, Fornasetti Profumi “Don Giovani” scented candle, Roxanne Assoulin earrings,Valentino Garavani floral detail shoulder bag & Manolo Blahnik “Camparicaro” pumps.
Prints Meet Prints.
Warm Season. ‘Tis the season for warmth, fine fabrics and a dash of something that makes you feel truly cosseted and cozy. We all deserve to treat ourselves with something relaxing and laid-back.
Neo-Disco. With the rise of modern-day disco – think Róisín Murphy, Kylie Minogue, Jessie Ware and Dua Lipa’s 2020 records – that helped as out during the tough lockdown days, how about having an intimate disco party at your home? Turn on Madonna’s “Confessions On A Dancefloor“, and lose yourself to dance!
Colour Pop. Unpredictable colour combinations always lift the mood. Can’t go wrong with an Extreme Cashmere cardigan in bold orange or the already-cult Bottega Veneta intreciatto-weave cluth in refreshing lime.
Some more festive gift guides are coming soon! Here are some you might have missed – cozy chic for her and “be bold” for him!
All collages by Edward Kanarecki.
This year, I’ve decided to create dream gift guides that might make it easier for you to go (and filter) through the festive season. Get ready for a selection of beautiful items that will spark joy and last for years. The ones that will certainly please one’s senses and deliver heavenly feelings. Treat your loved ones and yourself! Here’s the curated edit of the most covetable delights, for him, which are all about being feeling bold and chic.
Quilt and Patch. For a few season now, Emily Adams Bode’ eponymous, New York-based label storms menswear, whether it’s Harry Styles wearing Bode corduroy pants or Ezra Miller wearing a full look on the red carpet. One of the brand’s signature, quilted jackets is high up on my wishlist for Santa.
Groovy and Cozy. Yes, your stay-at-home uniform can be as good as a eee-Lite song.
Big & Chunky Knit. Dries Van Noten certainly knows how to make you drool over a knit.
Modern Dandy. Break conventions and play with the notions of elegance. Elevated classics that will never get boring.
Loewe x Ken Price. Just in time for Christmas, Loewe has dropped a new art capsule. Ken Price (1935 – 2012) was a Californian artist, born and raised in Los Angeles, whose esoteric style defied categorization. Calling on eclectic influences from Mexican folk art to erotica and surf culture, his output included vibrant landscapes that have become the focus of the capsule collection – a selection of limited edition ready-to-wear, iconic bags and accessories.
Timeless Neutrals. Different shades of brown and beige… sometimes, you just have never enough of them.
Hed Mayner single-breasted blazer, Hed Mayner wool trousers, Ann Demeulemeester feather pendant necklace, Bottega Veneta tortoiseshell oval sunglasses, Lemaire croissant leather crossbody bag & Dries Van Noten pony hair derbies
Think Green, Wear Green. Green is often thought to represent tranquility, good luck and health. This is how we all want to enter 2021…
Nerdy Non-Chalance. Tis the season of a geeky sweaters! Why not make the outfit even more so-bad-it’s-good with some statement accessories?
The Great Outdoors. Whether its The Crown‘s British moores (obsessed) or stylish grocery shopping in your neighbourhood, gorgeous outerwear won’t dissapoint anyone.
Arty. Christo, the Bulgarian-born artist became internationally renowned for his monumental art projects that would redefine public spaces, landmarks and natural landscapes, often by augmenting or concealing their natural appearance with miles of fabric. He passed away this year, and to celebrate his ouvre, Taschen decided to update its monograph book on his and Jeanne-Claude’s artistic practice.
Los Angeles Cool. There are two labels coming from Los Angeles that I’m constantly obsessed with – Greg Chait’s The Elder Statesman and Eli Russell Linnetz’s ERL. While the first is a tie-dyed cashmere heaven, the second envisions a unisex world that reflects the heart and soul of LA’s youth. Both of them exude an air of nostalgia, with inspiration stemming from ‘90s films, Venice Beach skaters, and the Santa Monica aura. Oh, and both brands make genius clothes and accessories which will definitely work as a forever-lasting gifts!
Parisian Chic. I wrote about Husbands Paris not a while ago. Everything is a dream, really, from their signature knitted ties to the most delightful trench coats. You’ll find Husbands between the orbits of tailoring and fashion, plucking the craftsmanship from the former and stories from the latter to fill an otherwise uninhabited space of the industry with culture and style. Want!
Raf Knows What A Guy Needs. Really, if you’re not sure what he wants… buy him Raf Simons.
More festive gift guides are coming soon! Here’s one you might have missed – for her!
All collages by Edward Kanarecki.