Adaptability. Peter Do SS21

Gradually, first collections made entirely in lockdown are trickling in. Peter Do, the New York-based designer whom I follow since his time as studio designer at Céline, doesn’t show in the regular schedule, and this season his plan was a presentation in Paris (during men’s spring-summer 2021 collections back in June). Of course, this couldn’t work out, so he released a look-book and short video. The 2020 LVMH Prize finalist and nominee for this year’s CFDA emerging designer award is evolving, style-wise, as well as improving his signature pieces. Adaptability has been one of the hallmarks of his label since its launch two years ago. An early best seller was an adjustable jacket that separated into a bolero and a backless waistcoat. This season, he applied the concept to a technical silk dress that easily converts to an elegantly draped cape-back evening top. In this strange moment, if you are capable of spending on designer clothes rather than on the home improvements, a two-in-one that will play exceptionally well on Zoom screens is a smart bet. His chic long dresses in T-shirt jersey, including one that can be worn back to front with a tank underneath, show off a softer sensibility than this tailoring-focused designer has displayed before. Do told Vogue he was eager to break his own codes and “respond to what happens.” Also, it’s worth mentioning the accessories collaboration with Medea, a brand that makes those cool, leather “shopping bag” bags. For Peter Do, the label came up with bold colours and new sizes. One thing I don’t entirely feel in this line-up is the styling. Actually, some of the looks are over-styled, and it’s a bit hard to comprehend the garments. But then, Peter Do’s clothes are all about flexibility, so it’s really the matter of how you want to wear his clothes.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

That Tiny Bag: Medea

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Every so often a label appears out of nowhere that piques my interest. Well, maybe not that out of nowhere. I’ve discovered Medea the moment Petra Collins and Dev Hynes took it to the streets. And what is it precisely? That tiny, little bag. “We always were into bags and would spend money on those instead of clothes, so we thought, why not make a very fine leather bag that is shaped like a shopping bag?”, recall Giulia and Camilla Venturini for Vogue. The twin sisters have the bags crafted from matte calfskin leather in Verona, Italy. The Prima has just launched at Dover Street Market, Opening Ceremony and Selfridges, while the collection is expanding. For now, the bags come in eight colors and four sizes, ranging from micro (big enough for your phone) to an XXL version. The designers are also about to release a collection this September, made in collaboration with an artist. Expect the unexpected from this Milan-based label.