Men’s: Comme des Garcons AW14

January 19, 2014January 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Comme des Garcons Homme Plus collection for AW14 was all about Hiroshima chic and apocalyptic style that this label is believing in from the beginning. The collection was (no wonder) dark and dull, although there were some pieces that are really high IQ. For example the necklace that remind suite’s collar. Or the grungy chunky sweaters with holes cut out… And the most amusing and frightening thing of this greasy collection was the hair that models had- it reminded me of “Alien” movie were these shrimp-like UFO had these long, black structures on heads. This CdG presentation is definitely not the basic one, but still, it’s fun… And spooky.

Men’s: Suite Up. Berluti AW14

January 18, 2014February 2, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alessandro Sartori who gave a rebirth to the old label Berluti, known for the best men suits and shoes, simply nailed it yesterday at the first to date live runway collection. Elegant, comfortable suits made with the best tailoring; cashmere sweaters in warm colours; shoes made of triple layered wool and leather; and amazing camel coats are just few of the highlights. I really loved the selection of models; mature, with a specific chic in them. The way they wore the outfits (nonchalantly, a bit loosely) with gloves and huge bags was like a poetry. After discovering Berluti once again, I am already waiting for the new changes made by Mr. Sartori!

Men’s: Basketball. Givenchy AW14

January 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy always openly says that he is inspired with street style while designing new collection. And this time we went to Brooklyn, where the muscular guys play basketball, listen to rap and wear all these LAKERS tank tops. The venue of the collection was all about a basketball field, with the cyber-clock and baskets… the models wore over-sized trousers, sneakers, loose jumpers and tank-tops just like Michael Jourdan. But in more fashionable way. I don’t see anything for me, but surely this will be a hit in the stores… P.s. Mariacarla Boscono is back after her pregnancy! She was a guest model of the show and as always looked fierce…

Men’s: Maison Martin Margiela AW14

January 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Maison Martin Margiela did a greatly tailored collection for their AW14. Mixed with utilitarian elements, fur and leather, some artisanal vests and jackets were created, looking damn cool and practical. Then there was this amazing shirling fur jacket, black capes and radiant blue leather appearance throughout the show. The collection is contemporary, comfortable and elegant, but as well full of young, creative spirit. And the show venue was fantastic- a huge space that simply nailed it.

Men’s: Fuchsia. Dries Van Noten AW14

January 17, 2014August 30, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

So he wanted the clothes to feel old. Coats were completely dyed and then acid-washed; striped businessmen’s shirts were tie-dyed; a jean jacket was overdyed to an oily sheen; jeans were stripped with acid. And a worn khaki coat could have been vintage military. There was a feel of the itinerant tribes the U.K. calls “travellers” in these seemingly repurposed pieces. Dries Van Noten AW14 was one of the most colourful and buzzy shows of the season… And the colours were breaking the news.