Men’s – Full Frontal. Rick Owens AW15

January 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Let’s go straightly to the topic – Rick Owens went full frontal for his AW15 show. Why? The tank top / dresses (however you call them) has holes placed… yep, there. Although it’s not that visible on the photos, some models had their penises spotted. Well… Hussein Chalayan showed women’s pubic hair in his dresses few years ago. But that really stole the spotlight. And Rick earned the ultimate status of the 2015’s biggest provoker. I mean, I don’t see myself wearing nudity in thoes places just like Rick offers. Definitely, that might not be safe for your health! This is a big field of discussion at the moment…”Nudity is the most simple and primal gesture,” Owens said backstage. “It packs a punch. It’s powerful. It’s a straight world now. It says something about being independent. Who else can really get away with this stuff? It’s a corporate world! This was our private moment.” If talking of the clothes, most them revealed the Adam’s apple. But I thinkt that the knitted “thing” seems to look warm… and surely cold-defending.

Men’s – Badass. Haider Ackermann AW15

January 23, 2015January 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I usually don’t use the word “badass”, but this time is an exception. Haider Ackermann seriously made his dark presentation not give a damn. Dandy-ish, decadent. “The idea was to be able to smell the clothes”. The models where staged on a platform in Musee Galliera, wearing slim trousers, military coats, velvet blazers, accompanied with two girls (Mica Arganaraz, I see you!). I enjoyed most the richness of fabrics, colours. It’s so typical for Haider. Also, this rock’n’roll attitude made all that gentlemen-ish mood feel lighter and more chaotic!

Men’s – Steady. Lemaire AW15

January 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christophe Lemaire changed the name of his own, eponymous label, into LEMAIRE. What does it mean? He wants it to be even more descreet and less personalized. “We thought it was time to clarify and reboot, to give it a family name which reflects that we are very much a design duo,” he said. Sarah Tran, his partner, added: “It’s also to say that what we do is about teamwork—people working for a name, yes, but a less personified one than before.” In his AW15 collection, the men, as usually, looked steady and ready for daily life. Comfortable parkas, loosely tailored trousers and over-sized capes were mixed with a slight body exposure. Mostly, the models didn’t wear shirts under their casual blazers. “It is always about the idea of showing a man who is steady,” he said. Fall 2015’s articulation of that Mr. Reliable was based on Alexandre, the amorous protagonist played by Jean-Pierre Léaud in La Maman et la Putain.

Men’s – Androginity. Gucci AW15

January 21, 2015January 20, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Gucci is under big change. Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s head accessories designer, is now the creative director (which is still under question mark…). After a quick departure of Frida Gianini from the house, the new designing team had to change everything – the setting, the bags, shoes and… Gucci. I mean, Gucci’s image which was created by Frida for 8 years. And the effect is very edgy… androgynous models, gender-mixing pants, satin shirts, flannel shirts with pussy bows (for men) and lace tops are just few of the most shocking and outstanding pieces of the whole collection. Even the classical jet-set loafers were filled with fur! Nobody’s sure how the collection is going to be welcomed in the stores, but… I am still under the state of bewilderment.

Men’s – New Menswear. J.W. Anderson AW15

January 12, 2015January 12, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thankfully, during men’s London fashion weeks, we’ve got J.W. Anderson, who makes the young breed of designers interesting. Showing his collection on the second day of the fashion week, Jonathan Anderson presented his new ideas on a purple carpet made from used tires which looks pretty much amazing. As we all know from the past, women’s pre-fall and men’s fall are connected – the colour palette, the textiles and the main themes are very close. Sudden odd details abounded, like oversize collars and sleeves and buttons fabricated from metalwork (these make me constantly confused). But his provocateur attitude was tempered by immediately desirable clothes like the two-tone turtlenecks, degrade effect car coats and gorgeous, long scarves. “I like this idea of something that felt a little apocalyptic, or looking like it came from a computer game,” explained Anderson backstage of the show’s backstage. As for the clothes, they were a “mishmash of decades – I like isolating the idea of the look.” So the fabric on a coat could be from the 60s but the detailing on it from the 70s. “We were reflecting on different tribal movements and hybridising them. Is it an 80s jacket or not? Does that even matter? It’s about rejecting nostalgia.”