French art students learn about Jean Pierre Raynaud at school. He was the conceptualist who spent 25 years building his house, only to decide it was too perfect and, in 1993, tear it to bits. Piece d’Anarchive, the fresh label coming straight from Paris, is a buzzy, loudly printed and cool vibed brand, that’s pretty new in fashion world. Their first real collection happened last season, and their second is up here, for Spring. Piece d’Anarchive designs for men and women, and their look-books make me want everything! The new collection is inspired with famous monochrome prints that were created by Jean Pierre Raynaud. Shorts, dresses, shoes (!), tshirts… everything is in black & white checks. The womenswear looks really hot and cool, and menswear is simply omething I want for a Christmas present! Just look at these trousers and sweatshirts! Love it! More on http://www.piecedanarchive.com
Men
The Flower Men
One of the coolest trend from the menswear Fashion Week SS14, is for sure the floral print. It was everywhere! It was all about the variety- from sun flowers to orchids. The king of that print was definitely Dries Van Noten. His collection was very street style, comfortable and simply chic. And florals were like everywhere! On the tank tops to the sweat pants.
The exotic one was 3.1. Philip Lim with the hummingbirds and hibiscus that decorated the tops. Miuccia Prada offered knitwear with Vietnamese flowers and Raf Simons took to a scientist laboratory, where his fantastic t-shirts had some notes written around the botanical specie… I think that was the most floral season for a really long time at men’s runway, and I think that’s totally right?
Men’s: Heavy Metal. Rick Owens SS14
What a show was that! When Rick Owens invited Estonian heavy metal band Winny Puhh (yes, that means Winnie The Pooh), he says he felt “an instant jolt of recognition. And Estonian is such an alien language that when it’s shrieked at you by a guy in a wolf mask, it becomes major.” They had it all that Rick needed for his show- scary, sleazy and hardcore look. If you don’t know Winny Puhh, and hadn’t a chance to know what is Eurovisia in Europe then I will shortly explain that. Eurovisia is a expensive, but cheap looking TV show that is hosted everytime in different countries of Europe. It’s popular in Europe, but mostly European are ashamed of it… And it’s demolic choreography, WORST singers of the specific country and the cheap, sorrow atmosphere. So, back to Rick Owens show- that sounds very interesting and different that he took these strangers for music thing for his show. Owens’ was called Vicious. That was the spirit Owens wanted—”cheerful viciousness, viciousness with humor. I felt like doing something ludicrous and fun.” The clothes- well, in rhythm of the music the models nearly ran. “Urgent movement and fierce athleticism were the driving forces of the collection. Long-sleeve tees, close to the body, zipped even closer, over shorts…sheer diagonals, perforations, and mesh tanks revealing the flesh beneath…leather tanks flying away into long fringe, fringed leather belts…everything moving” wrote Tim Blanks. Totally agree. That was something awfully mind blowing.
Men’s: Rick Owens 👽 Adidas
When I heard of that fantastical collaboration I was like no way. But it is all true. Rick Owens for Adidas or other side back. And the effect is mind blowing! It’s like the Rick Owens classical sneakers with high top, but in a more “fat” edition. Kept in a typical Ricky colour palette, these masterpieces that were shown during the Paris Fashion Week for men for sure got a much, much higher price tag than normal Adidas sneakers… But they look so good! 
Men’s: Mature Cool. Kenzo SS14
I was a little bit disappointed with the new Kenzo collection for men. The entrance was superb- a fruit mosaic on the floor, market stalls with Kenzo fresh juices and so on- in other words colours. But that was just the opposite to the clothes that were presented in a huge hall with tribunes around. Models walked on a circular platform very close to the front row, and then went up the stairs on the highest “stage” of this huge chamber, standing, and presenting the cool jackets, bags and many more. It’s all sounds great, but the collection unfortunately wasn’t so good.
The first look gave first impression- boring elegant sportswear. In blue colours. Then it was all grey with some hind of confetti print. Then red phase with black elements on the tshirts. It’s all boring, but cool and kind if nice. There were few cool looks, but last season was much better. Unfortunately, that wasn’t this what I was expecting. Not youthful and full of colourful, but MATURE TO DEATH. And now we won’t wear the Kenzo Tigers but Kenzo Tsunamis.
Design & Culture by Ed 