Men’s – Casual Days. Bally AW15

January 20, 2015January 20, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Wow, Bally amazed me. Under designer Pablo Coppola, the Swiss nation’s most famous brand—a 164-year-old shoe manufacturer—is loosening up into something pretty appealing. For his second official menswear season at Bally, Coppola did justice to his surname by turning to cinema for inspiration: “a lot of Wes Anderson, and specifically The Royal Tenenbaums,” he said. That’s visible – the yellow ostrich leather coats and accessorice feel so refreshing and edgy… but at the same time casual. And, Coppola showed the perfect suit I would wear everyday – the beige combo of blazer and tailored pants, styled with a beanie and sneakers.

Men’s – New Menswear. J.W. Anderson AW15

January 12, 2015January 12, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thankfully, during men’s London fashion weeks, we’ve got J.W. Anderson, who makes the young breed of designers interesting. Showing his collection on the second day of the fashion week, Jonathan Anderson presented his new ideas on a purple carpet made from used tires which looks pretty much amazing. As we all know from the past, women’s pre-fall and men’s fall are connected – the colour palette, the textiles and the main themes are very close. Sudden odd details abounded, like oversize collars and sleeves and buttons fabricated from metalwork (these make me constantly confused). But his provocateur attitude was tempered by immediately desirable clothes like the two-tone turtlenecks, degrade effect car coats and gorgeous, long scarves. “I like this idea of something that felt a little apocalyptic, or looking like it came from a computer game,” explained Anderson backstage of the show’s backstage. As for the clothes, they were a “mishmash of decades – I like isolating the idea of the look.” So the fabric on a coat could be from the 60s but the detailing on it from the 70s. “We were reflecting on different tribal movements and hybridising them. Is it an 80s jacket or not? Does that even matter? It’s about rejecting nostalgia.”

Men’s: Casely-Hayford

August 2, 2014August 2, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Casely-Hayford is a menswear brand which is designed by Charlie and Joe- father-and-son duo, that feels the same vibe. The British label had it’s big moment for SS15 during London Fashion Week. Their idea was to fuse classical men clothes, with artistic, a bit “slouchy” look which I really loved. The main refference? John Baldessari works, which are known for appropriation of images with colourful dots and squares. Even dough the shapes and cuts of all suit jackets and trousers were very “gentleman” like, there was nothing traditional about it. My favourite outfit? The one above, with camel mackintosh coat, over-sized white t-shirt and black, cropped trousers. The look is very easy to achieve, while it brings up sophistication and British coolness. Casely-Hayford is the label to know, gents! Caswly-Hayford is available at Dover Street Market New York, London and Tokyo, Selfridges, Barney’s, Union LA. Joyce, IT and Swank Hong Kong, Biffi Milano, Rail Brescia, United Arrows, Tomorrowland, Annan, Luis Japan and Colette Paris.

Men’s: What’s Hot (6.7.14)

Image | July 6, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Men’s: Psych Rock. Saint Laurent SS15

June 30, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Hedi Slimane of Saint Laurent always keeps his own style in his designs. And not many designer do that nowadays. The men’s SS15 entitled Psych Rock was all about Hedi’s love to rock & roll. Little Bugle Boy jacket, poncho, sheepskin vest, army surplus, embroidered jeans, amulets, snakeskin boots, garage band—rather than an unleashing of the beast of psych rock. The collection had something of beautiful gypsy escape (all these jewels) vibe, the indie rock chic and itty-bitty rodeo style (the soundtrack is a contribution from an obscure West Coast sixties-revivalist band, the wide-hatted Mystic Braves were an aural and visual complement to the new collection). I really enjoyed the whole show (and women’s was so, so good. Natalie Westling and her hot red hair combined with a black maxi dress and star sequined boots are dreamy) and I am happy we’ve got Hedi at Saint Laurent. By the way, au revoir men’s PFW for SS15!