Men’s – Fire at Pitti Uomo. Y/Project AW19

It’s just the beginning of 2019, and we’re already talking about a fashion week. While men’s London fashion week simply seemed to be there, somewhere in the background – with such exceptions as Charles Jeffrey Loverboy’s phenomenal spectacle – the new season takes a more interesting path in Italy, in Florence specifically. Pitti Uomo invited Y/Project, the Paris-based label nailing modern-day nonchalance, to present its collection in Tuscany’s magical capital. Glenn Martens took his guests to the Cloister Grade of Santa Maria Novella, and the result was… fire. Indeed, Martens mastered his distinct touches, like distorted proportions, too-short-here-too-long-there volumes and texture clashes to a perfection of its kind, and we know it looking at his previous collections. But the autumn-winter 2019 outing for guys (and pre-fall 2019 for women) goes darker than usual, even slightly dramatic I would say. And we’re not speaking about couture-ish embroideries and ball-gowns. No. But the way the designer tailors a trench-coat, shapes a velvet jacket or elongates a chunky knit is extremely vivid. Those garments leave and breathe! And Glenn evidently experiments with that feeling of clothes in motion. I also loved how Martens injected this flea-market edginess to his new season offering: (faux) fur stoles and floor-sweeping coats looked like stolen from your grandma, while hand-picked Persian rugs were worn as belts and scarves. The vocabulary of Y/Project grows, but  you’re well aware that it’s the same soul. Whether it’s in a off-beat, Parisian location or in one of Florence’s most exquisite churches.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Volume Play. Casely Hayford AW17

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Joe Casely-Hayford and his son, Charlie, have a reason to celebrate this season. Not only it’s Joe’s 30 years in the fashion industry; autumn-winter 2017 collection is the brand’s second season consisting of both men’s and women’s, but this time the vision of a Casely-Hayford female is much more visible and clearer. It’s a conversation between masculine essentials and abstract femininity – once it’s about an over-size cardigan, once about a transparent polka-dots printed cape. Casely-Hayford, since its very beginnings, focuses on men’s tailoring with a twist. There’s no wonder why the volumes feel experimental, from the trousers’ cut to blazer silhouettes. Hanging threads on women’s coats looked somewhat oriental, while the colourful sneakers were all about contemporary look. Casely-Hayford and its aesthetic can’t be described in a word – the designers prefer to focus on the form and textiles, while playing with cropping and distorting.

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Men’s – Artistic. Walter Van Beirendock AW15

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Belgian designer, Walter Van Beirendock, uses fashion not only as his own artistic expression, but also as a message: STOP TERRORISING OUR WORLD was definitely directed on the horrible, savage and unhumane attack that took place lately in Paris (#jesuischarlie). Walter mixed plastic, wool, satin, jacquard, EVERYTHING, and created a colour collection for soldiers of LOVE. Slightly tribal, rather than going into military green, Van Beirendock brought a whole colour palette. And the detailing was fantastic, too. I love when designers aren’t scared to make men’s fashion avant-garde, fearless and playfull. But at the same time meaningful and right for the current situation.

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Men’s – Milanese Men. No21 AW15

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Allesandro Dell’Acqua keeps it cool at his recent men’s collection. Hight quality knitwear, tailored trousers, wool trimmed coats – a perfect wardrobe for modern man which feels that Italian attitude… and precisely, Milanese. Even the colours here were all about coffee. My total favourite is the shearling coat combined with those awesome mohair socks and leather sandals – this breaks the stereotype of typical menswear, but at the same time makes men look like men. For women – gorgeous dresses for Italian dates.

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Amusement of Disfigurement

Slide3-kopiaThis will be a strange post. Made in need of something amusing and ugly. Just as the Raf Simons men’s SS14 leather boots that reminds me of Zenon. Zenon was a 21st century girld who lived in space and wore cheap latex costumes in a similar Raf Simons colour palet. But really, these are ugly to death. I would never touch, them I hate this mix of colours! But because of being ugly they are fresh and amusing. Just like the series of Zenon that were taken from the Disney channel after three months because of low viewers amount. Slide4-kopiaSlide5-kopiaJ.W. Anderson is changing into a serious designer- his clothes are almost in every Vogue! And the most popular dress from his collection (FOR WOMEN) is the grey one with a geometric pocket reminding of a nurse apron and Fifth Element’s costumes. Well, it is not really beautiful (it really disfigures women’s body) but the ugliness made all editors use it in their editorials.Slide6-kopiaSlide7-kopiaChristopher Kane’s print fantasy for AW13 is really out of this world. It’s the… Brain X-ray. Sounds horribly, but it is possible to wear a real brain photo on a dress. With blood! Disgusting.  And the colours used here are terrible. More on http://www.BROWNSfashion.com!!!Slide1-kopia 9Slide2-kopia

Men’s: Winter 2013/14 for Prada

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That was a good show! The models, setting, music… Yes the setting. The show set was like a contemporary lounge furnished by Knoll. It should have been reminding of an ideal home. The clothes were cool and smart, and very innocent. The clothes weren’t minimalistic but simple and easy to wear, at the same time perfect. The heavy shoes gave some tiny bit of rock and chic. In total the show was refreshing. Mrs. Prada this time the menswear collection was great!

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Men’s: AW13 for Louis Vuitton

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Louis Vuitton knows how to amaze me. This time, LV was awesome! Kim Jones, the deigner, is just a menswear genius! The collection started from faded leopard coats, then into black. The sport jackets with fur and backpacks are just perfect for a stylish trip to mountains and the 70’s floral kimonos look like they were taken from Tibet! The whole collection was like a trip to this magical place in Asia. Mountains, snow, Asian-culture influences, dragons… The bags from traditional tapestry shown some mystic stories and the super cute sweater with a comic leopard will be for sure must have in Paris street style (the same as the beige too big scarves from last season). And look at the backpacks- they are edgy with youthful vibe, although they look practically for a journey to a ideal snowy country… Maybe Switzerland, Italy, France or Aspen?

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