Men’s – Fire at Pitti Uomo. Y/Project AW19

It’s just the beginning of 2019, and we’re already talking about a fashion week. While men’s London fashion week simply seemed to be there, somewhere in the background – with such exceptions as Charles Jeffrey Loverboy’s phenomenal spectacle – the new season takes a more interesting path in Italy, in Florence specifically. Pitti Uomo invited Y/Project, the Paris-based label nailing modern-day nonchalance, to present its collection in Tuscany’s magical capital. Glenn Martens took his guests to the Cloister Grade of Santa Maria Novella, and the result was… fire. Indeed, Martens mastered his distinct touches, like distorted proportions, too-short-here-too-long-there volumes and texture clashes to a perfection of its kind, and we know it looking at his previous collections. But the autumn-winter 2019 outing for guys (and pre-fall 2019 for women) goes darker than usual, even slightly dramatic I would say. And we’re not speaking about couture-ish embroideries and ball-gowns. No. But the way the designer tailors a trench-coat, shapes a velvet jacket or elongates a chunky knit is extremely vivid. Those garments leave and breathe! And Glenn evidently experiments with that feeling of clothes in motion. I also loved how Martens injected this flea-market edginess to his new season offering: (faux) fur stoles and floor-sweeping coats looked like stolen from your grandma, while hand-picked Persian rugs were worn as belts and scarves. The vocabulary of Y/Project grows, but  you’re well aware that it’s the same soul. Whether it’s in a off-beat, Parisian location or in one of Florence’s most exquisite churches.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Volume Play. Casely Hayford AW17

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Joe Casely-Hayford and his son, Charlie, have a reason to celebrate this season. Not only it’s Joe’s 30 years in the fashion industry; autumn-winter 2017 collection is the brand’s second season consisting of both men’s and women’s, but this time the vision of a Casely-Hayford female is much more visible and clearer. It’s a conversation between masculine essentials and abstract femininity – once it’s about an over-size cardigan, once about a transparent polka-dots printed cape. Casely-Hayford, since its very beginnings, focuses on men’s tailoring with a twist. There’s no wonder why the volumes feel experimental, from the trousers’ cut to blazer silhouettes. Hanging threads on women’s coats looked somewhat oriental, while the colourful sneakers were all about contemporary look. Casely-Hayford and its aesthetic can’t be described in a word – the designers prefer to focus on the form and textiles, while playing with cropping and distorting.

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Men’s – Artistic. Walter Van Beirendock AW15

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Belgian designer, Walter Van Beirendock, uses fashion not only as his own artistic expression, but also as a message: STOP TERRORISING OUR WORLD was definitely directed on the horrible, savage and unhumane attack that took place lately in Paris (#jesuischarlie). Walter mixed plastic, wool, satin, jacquard, EVERYTHING, and created a colour collection for soldiers of LOVE. Slightly tribal, rather than going into military green, Van Beirendock brought a whole colour palette. And the detailing was fantastic, too. I love when designers aren’t scared to make men’s fashion avant-garde, fearless and playfull. But at the same time meaningful and right for the current situation.

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Men’s – Milanese Men. No21 AW15

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Allesandro Dell’Acqua keeps it cool at his recent men’s collection. Hight quality knitwear, tailored trousers, wool trimmed coats – a perfect wardrobe for modern man which feels that Italian attitude… and precisely, Milanese. Even the colours here were all about coffee. My total favourite is the shearling coat combined with those awesome mohair socks and leather sandals – this breaks the stereotype of typical menswear, but at the same time makes men look like men. For women – gorgeous dresses for Italian dates.

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