Beautiful Consistence. APC AW19

This was a classic A.P.C. presentation, with a few plot twists. Jean Toitou invited two collaborators for autumn-winter 2019 collection: Brain Dead, an Los Angeles–based streetwear brand, and Suzanne Koller, the house’s longtime stylist and Parisian friend. The first created graphic hoodies based on the 1972 documentary, Future Shock, in which Orson Welles, playing narrator, discusses how technology is moving too fast for humans to keep up. Koller, the fashion director of M Le Monde and Self Service, designed the collection’s black wool dress (worn by her currently favourite blond, Maggie Mauer) and an oversize parka that she teamed with a monochrome look in gray: chunky sweater, turtleneck, wool trousers, and leather boots. During his speech, Touitou joked, “Maybe you can guess which pieces are hers.” Knowing her style and work, you could think of Koller right away, even not knowing about A.P.C.’s collab.  A.P.C. values consistence, which seems like the best advise for any brand doing shows in Paris. And their eventual ‘surprises’ make this consistence even more beautiful.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Handsome. Haider Ackermann AW19

There’s no way you can go wrong with Haider Ackermann. “They’re handsome people—handsome girls and handsome boys,” the designer said after his show. The new collection is  the designer’s second attempt at combining women’s and men’s on one runway, and he succeeded with a smooth, beautifully synchronised line-up. “It’s not unisex; it’s about borrowing” – Ackermann summed up. He used the same materials for women and men, which gives the clothes a sense of fluidity. But also, while the models walked in pairs – girl and boy, boy and boy, girl and girl – you just couldn’t stop thinking about how good a couple would look wearing matching Ackermann bomber jackets, kimono coats, super slim pants and hot or studded leather boots. And when you note that the soundtrack was Jane and Serge’s “Je T’aime . . . Moi Non Plus”… it all made sense right away. Not only clothes were important in this show. There was love in the air. As pretty much always, I’m giving high marks to Haider.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Sleek. Tom Ford AW19

Hello, NYFW. New season is on, again. There’s no rest from fashion. But then, Tom Ford isn’t here for the newness. For autumn-winter 2019, the designer delivered what he does best: the 90s sleek we all know and used to love at his Gucci. Two specific looks – worn by Maria Carla Boscono and Gigi Hadid – were a straightforward reference to his iconic 1996 collection for the Italian house. The deep, cherry red velvet suit. The jersey column eveningwear from the 2019 outing was a remiscent of the gowns that closed the same collection back then (all-white, worn by Kate Moss and Amber Valletta). Other than that, Tom returned to his tailoring roots, reworking the codes he famously established. The grey horse-rider blazer was sublime, while the version in satin black looked more than relevant with a de luxe hoodie. Some looks were complemented with groovy faux fur hats, while others were styled with sparkgling stilettos. At the very same time, the Tom Ford man should own two looks: a velvet suit, kept in the most alluring shade of burgundy, and a suit in dove grey leather. That’s it.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Collector. Bode AW19

It’s official: I want to wear Bode for the rest of my life. Taking home one of the two CFDA runner-up prizes in 2018 let Emily Bode expand her truly amazing menswear brand. But still, she keeps it true to her slow fashion philosophy. Bode is actually the only brand I’m looking forward to each season during the sleepy men’s New York fashion week. She knows what the boys want, plus, the designer is praised for her sustainable practices and focus on beautifully curated craftsmanship. The autumn-winter 2019 collection is dedicated to all the collectors, who just love gathering paraphernalia (basically, me). The band of long-haired boys played soft rock tunes during the presentation, while the venue (a garage/warehouse) was filled with tour posters and hand-picked vintage furniture. Bode can make wonders out of anything.  PVC raincoats embedded with pennies and milk bottle caps. Velvet suiting made out of patchwork, each piece completely different. Hand-illustrated corduroy jackets. By styling those unique clothes with fluffy mittens, Himalayan caps and furry baboosh slippers, the overall mood is somewhere between a chic nomad and a cozy guy with a soft spot for handicraft. Big yes.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.