Men’s – Life’s A Journey. Moschino SS25

June 16, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Life is an unexpected journey: that’s the morale conveyed by Adrian Appiolaza‘s first menswear show for Moschino. Before he left Argentina for Europe, the designer once held down a job selling insurance. To present a respectable façade to potential clients, his employer obliged him to wear a company-provided suit. He felt like a prisoner of that ill-fitting, sad suit. That formative trauma collided with something once said by Franco Moschino himself: “it’s better to dress as you wish than as you should.” Appiolaza began his spring-summer 2025 story of resilience and traveling through life with ironic takes on corporate attire. A shirt skirt worn with a real shirt but unreal suspenders and a four-button suit teamed with three hats were amongst the first of many cheeky, archival references. The soccer-ball sweater teamed with a tri-starred baseball cap was a salute back to Argentina, while the Italian flag soccer couple – one with an authentic red sauce splattering! – was a gesture to Appiolaza’s new creative home. Franco Moschino’s recurring goose motif returned in prints on skirts and shirting in a hokey, bucolic countrywear duet. The closing looks reminisced something accidental lovers would wear – and get married in – on a nameless island after a ship wreck. The all-white heavy linen suit with a sleeve skirt is a fresh take on groomswear. The models walked their finale around piles of lost luggage that symbolized the tangle of transformational journey narratives. This designer is really on to something with his vision for Moschino.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Stimulating. Bottega Veneta Pre-fall 2024

May 3, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Bottega Veneta has released a stunningly stimulating, pre-fall 2024 collection. It’s so evident that Matthieu Blazy found his groove at the brand: his last runway shows are delightful to the senses. But it’s the pre-collections that really validate whether a designer has formed their vocabulary for a house, and Blazy definitely knows what his direction is. While other brands try to propose total looks and stay in one aesthetic lane, the Belgian designer rather pursuits the idea of style that’s diverse and truly authentic. Bottega Veneta isn’t a brand that intentionally creates Instagrammable products – even though social media is increasingly raving about Blazy’s take on the brand. People are catching up with his celebration of humanity which is conveyed in the striking artisanship Bottega stands for.

For pre-fall, “the initial talk I had with the team was what would’ve been the ready-to-wear of Bottega when they started to make the bags in the late ’60s and ’70s. Of course, the idea was almost to work on something anachronic – we don’t want to go too literal, it was the idea of a modern time traveler.” The development process involved lots of photo research, including in old Interview magazines – “Andy Warhol loved Bottega,” he explained – to see “how people layered and mixed and matched.” It led to results like the suede skirt layered over suede pants, and the trim crewneck and striped collar shirt tucked belted gray jeans. The spirit he was channeling was “bourgeois, but decontracté,” he suggested, pointing to a checked button-down worn with a leather bomber and a khaki twill pencil skirt, and another checked button-down with a full skirt. There is much more to restlessly drool over in this lookbook: the pastel pant suits, the colorful suede intrecciato separates, the homoerotic-coded bandana bag, and a vibrant horizontally striped knit dress with the nubby pile of a carpet. Each piece is a wearable, meaningful artwork – that might be the ethos of Blazy’s Bottega Veneta.

Need a Bottega wardrobe fix?

ED’s SELECTION:

Jodie Mini Knotted Leather And Shearling Tote

Printed Leather Straight-leg Pants

Canalazzo Striped Intrecciato Leather Pumps

Printed Denim Shirt

Layered Cotton-blend Poplin And Bouclé Shirt

Small Solstice Shoulder Bag

Jacquard Feather Midi Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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ERL: Made In California

April 25, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

No one does California story-telling like Eli Russell Linnetz. Now, the ERL designer has taken a step further, and dropped a capsule collection entirely produced in the Golden State. Key shearling pieces came from sheared sheep that roam around the ERL studio alongside shearling waste from local farmers. In tandem with the California-made production, the collection leans into quintessential Americana styles – whether it be through denim or something as simple as plaid boxer shorts. I literally lost my mind for the cowboy sweater. The entire wardrobe is laden with jackets, flared bottoms, shin-length shorts, plaid shirts, heavyweight zip-ups with matching sweatpants, pocket tees and accessories. But the clear standout of the collection are the canary yellow shearling pieces that extend to an oversized jacket, bags and standout $28,000 chaps (hot). With its American-influenced aesthetic, the collection still channels the gritty-meets-sensual sentiments the brand is also known for.

The “Made in California” collection is available now online.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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She’s A Textile Girl. Maryam Nassir Zadeh AW24

April 12, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Maryam Nassir Zadeh has finally dropped her autumn-winter 2024 lookbook, and oh boy, it’s so good. The designer is one of the leading fashion voices of New York, and she certainly doesn’t need the platform of New York Fashion Week to prove that. Nassir Zadeh’s textile-informed (“I’m a textile girl“), tactile approach to her brand is widely copied by up-and-coming brands, but nobody does it so authentically and with such instinctual ease as her. There’s just lots and lots to love in this new collection, from the styling (perfectly matching the look-book’s location, shot somewhere in the South of France) to the clothes and accessories. The pastel pink fringed scarf in either pastel pink, beige or graphite, made from soft suede, will very likely become the label’s top-seller: you can drape it around the neck in many different ways or wear it as a shawl. Styled with new season workwear jackets, the vibe of this pieces is supremely cool. The goovy fringe story continues in skirts of different lengths. Then we’ve got citrus-colored metallic-threaded Indian materials made into charming bra-tops, mini-bags, and boxers. The designer recently visited Rajasthan, so that sun-drenched color palette definitely originates from that experience. Maryam achieves more with less, but she isn’t really after minimalism. She offers playful garments, but not in an adorned way (there are pretty much no superfluous embroideries or embellishments in her work) – it’s more about the way you can nonchalantly style and layer these pieces. The New York-based designer keeps on experimenting with merging womenswear with menswear, and the results are more than inspiring. “I’m putting the men in more feminine things and the women in more masculine things,” she noted. “It’s a full circle moment.”

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Cristaseya Edition #22

March 20, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Cristaseya is a Paris-based, lifestyle brand which isn’t bothered with the fashion industry’s crazy-paced schedule. Cristina Casini and Keiko Seya, the founders, both have worked for years as stylists for publications like L’Officiel, Numéro and i-D. One day they realized they don’t really see their personal style reflected in any of the clothes they go through everyday at work. In 2013, the duo decided to launch their own label with an aim to release “editions”, not collections, of around 20 items – specifically, one edition per six months. No overproduction, no hurry – just a pure, creative process which combines highest quality craftsmanship with the attitude of soft minimalism. The newest edition – #22 – is now available on their site, and the offering looks like the perfect transitioning-into-spring wardrobe. Fell in love with their voluminous collarless coat with leather piping, all the party silks, cool pajama suits and their ventures into handbags: the leather basket in different earthy shades and the fit-it-all weekend bag.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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