Sumptuous. Giorgio Armani SS27

There’s been a lot of chatter and speculation about who will eventually take over Giorgio Armani. As if Leo Dell’Orco, the late master’s longtime right-hand man, weren’t already doing a brilliant job. His menswear is sumptuously sublime – like the perfect vitello tonnato, a plate of artichoke hearts, and an espresso martini – and it breathes pure Armani DNA. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Giorgio Armani Solid Seersucker Sport Shirt



Giorgio Armani Herringbone Cashmere and Wool Sport Coat



Giorgio Armani Cotton and Silk Crewneck Sweater



Giorgio Armani Dyed Satin Oversized Button-Down Shirt with Pocket



Giorgio Armani Cotton and Lyocell Straight-Leg Pleated Trousers



Giorgio Armani Pleated Bib Tuxedo Shirt



Giorgio Armani 5-Pocket Stretch Cotton Pants

The Island. ERL SS27

Eli Russell Linnetz – who not long ago curated a capsule collection for Armani, reissuing some of Giorgio’s greatest hits from the 1970s and 1980s – is another menswear designer who deserves all the flowers. This season, the Venice Beach-based creative returns with a collection-script titled The Island, inspired by the deeply personal experience of staying in a stranger’s home and slowly getting to know the people who lived there.

The vibe is hyper-preppy, but what sets it apart from Ralph Lauren is ERL’s proudly loud, unapologetically queer flamboyance. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Patina. Magliano SS27

There’s a sense of distressed, dirty chic about Magliano. In a way, patina was Luca Magliano’s guiding obsession for spring-summer 2027 – “the patina of an old picture, of memory.” The garments carry a distinct 1970s flavor; they feel as if they’ve absorbed cigarette smoke and spilled liquor, as if they were worn all night in some old-school club you might still stumble upon on the outskirts of Rome or Milan (or in any of those smaller Italian towns where time moves differently).

The Milan-based designer – now showing in Paris – approaches classic menswear through a queer lens, filtered with irony and just the right amount of distance. A cheetah-print top paired with matching jeans, an ill-fitting four-button suit jacket that feels lifted from another era, a thrifted foulard worn like a sarong, an aged suit collapsing slightly at the shoulders – all of it carries nostalgia with a flicker of something sharper, almost rageful beneath the surface. Wink, wink.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Risk, Style, Sincerity. Celine SS27

Tough & Tender
Soft and strong
Packing light
Making do with a few great things. CUSTOMIZING.
Enjoying what we do in the studio, and desiring it ourselves, all of it, the clothes and the characters.
Panache. And being very unaware of having it.
Music and what music can FEEL like.
Listening
Possibility
Worlds opening up, even small ones, not closing. Movement.
Heirlooms and good time shirts
Authenticity and dress-up. Manners/propriety and practicality. And the opposite.
Being yourself, being on your own tip
Taking the time to return to things
GUT, and having GUTS
RISK
STYLE
SINCERITY
Free-styling
Summer is a chance to see places you’ve never seen,
or go back to places you’ve been going your whole life.
Spending as much time as you can outside.
Letting Loose.
Building toward something bigger. Something with legs, and roots.

– Michael Rider

Celine won the menswear season. Michael Rider “reminds us that the devil is in the details, but he also makes a compelling case for playing with what’s already in your wardrobe. Nobody else owns your exact combination of clothes and accessories. Your wardrobe is your DNA. The way you get dressed is your signature.” READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Familiar. Dries Van Noten SS27

There’s a sense of familiarity, reality, and lightness to what Julian Klausner is doing at Dries Van Noten. A devoted student of Papa Dries, he makes the house’s blend of meticulous embroidery and erotically charged, slightly off-kilter – yet never overly weird – elegance feel completely instinctive, almost on auto-pilot. And that’s very much to his advantage: his work should feel like coming home for Dries devotees. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Dries Van Noten Men’s Destin Mixed Leather Retro Sneakers



Dries Van Noten Men’s Striped Viscose-Blend Shirt



Dries Van Nioten Men’s Suede and Leather Duffel Crossbody Bag



Dries Van Noten Men’s Pine Straight-Fit Flocked Denim Jeans



Dries Van Noten Men’s Overdyed Cupro-Cotton Shirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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