Menswear

Flamboyant. Stefan Cooke SS26

| Design & Culture by Ed

Stefan Cooke and his partner, Jake Burt, have a way of uncovering the contemporary within the vintage. For spring–summer 2026, they merged references to New Wave with echoes of Princess Diana’s personal style, creating looks that feel sensual, clubby, and undeniably cool. A centerpiece of their collection was a replica of an American flying jacket they discovered on one of their trips to secondhand and army-surplus stores. In their hands, the jacket appears in an unexpected canary yellow, reimagined with updated proportions and a flamboyant flair. When worn with a hip-length sweater and a knife-pleated skirt, the look feels familiar yet intriguingly different. The same applies to the reworked grey sweatpants with a leather buckle strap (very Lederhosen), and the sweatshirt fitted with a sewn-in cummerbund and finished with a very British silk foulard. As for accessories, the London-based label has us covered with a pair of utterly charming opera shoes topped with a bow. Not a want – a need.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Boys. Dior Men Pre-Fall 2026

| Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson’s pre-fall 2026 collection for Dior Men reads as both a continuation and a clarification of his debut collection from the summer. And you know what? I like it. Anderson is betting big on a neo-preppy sensibility: oversized “Delft” cargo shorts, a frat-boy color palette, and a distinct Ralph-Lauren-ification of the Dior universe. What I loved most in this line-up is the way he transformed the “Bar” jacket – rendered here in Donegal wool – into a new menswear classic, something that can be effortlessly worn with faded jeans and a lived-in suede cross-body bag. Another look – a floral jacket layered over a blue striped shirt and paired with pink trousers – plays deliberately with the boundaries of good and bad taste in menswear. There’s an intriguing dialogue between high and low in Jonathan’s approach to Dior, and it makes the language he’s still in the process of defining sound increasingly compelling.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Expensive Wit. Loro Piana SS26

| Design & Culture by Ed

Loro Piana is a brand that isn’t about fashion per se – but it is unmistakably about (wealthy) style. The Loro Piana client doesn’t care about fads; rather, they are entirely confident investing a fortune in a wardrobe that is at once timeless, durable, and subtly nonchalant.

For spring–summer 2026, the Italian house’s design team delivered precisely that: tailoring in gentle muesli tones, elongated silhouettes with an aristocratic air (reminiscent of Marella Agnelli’s swan-like neck in Richard Avedon’s photograph), and a poised balance of countryside statesmanship and Milanese sophistication. There is also a touch of playfulness, captured in exaggerated cone-shaped hats that lend a light-hearted quirk to the cashmere empire. Those moments of wit make Loro so compelling – and standout from all the other “beige” minimalism that suffocates the industry at the moment.

ED’s SELECTION:

Loro Piana Reversible Shell And Cashmere Bomber Jacket


Loro Piana Happy Day Large Leather-trimmed Felt Tote


Loro Piana Boris Double-breasted Cashmere Coat


Loro Piana Broderick Corduroy-trimmed Linen And Silk-blend Coat


Loro Piana Alba Satin Slippers


Loro Piana Vivian Cashmere-blend Mini Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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It’s A Dance. Tom Ford Resort 2026

| Design & Culture by Ed

Haider Ackermann likes to compare his creative endeavor at Tom Ford to a dance. In his hands, it can be slow and sensual in one moment, then electric and seductive in the next. His sesort 2026 collection – an effortless bridge between his brilliant debut and an even stronger sophomore offering – shows just how fluently Ackermann speaks Ford’s design vocabulary.

In his press notes, the designer described the “unremitting verticality” of his vision for Tom Ford’s “beautiful creatures,” a concept rendered sublimely through masterfully elongated silhouettes, punctuated by bold color accents (green! blue! pink!) and razor-sharp shoulders. The collection – now arriving in stores – also introduces Ackermann’s take on day-ready pajama suits, for both him and her, that feel almost too good to be true.

If this collection were a dance, it would land somewhere between Ralph Fiennes’s unpredictable moves in “A Bigger Splash” and the magnetic elegance of Cyd Charisse and Gene Kelly in the “Broadway Melody Ballet” sequence. Delightful.

ED’s SELECTION:

TOM FORD Double-breasted Cotton And Silk-blend Hammered-satin Blazer


TOM FORD Eva D’orsay Satin Pumps


TOM FORD Belted Draped Silk-satin Maxi Skirt


TOM FORD Stretch-silk Georgette Gown


TOM FORD Leather Shirt – Blue

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Surplus. ERL Resort 2026

| Design & Culture by Ed

Of course, if you’ve just watched Kathryn Bigelow’s “House on Dynamite“, looking at ERL’s soldiers might make you feel somewhat uneasy. The fear of nuclear war is, well, omnipresent. But Eli Russell Linnetz’s take on army boys carries the attitude of the infamous 2007 Vogue Italia cover and editorial shot by Steven Meisel, where Agyness Deyn and a troop of golden-retriever-looking fighters undergo a kind of sexual awakening.

Linnetz titled hi resort 2026 collection “Surplus“, referencing the surplus store as a constant presence in “a deep corner of American consciousness.” The designer repurposed surplus stock – pieces he says he’s been collecting for years – and juxtaposed them with his more luxurious interpretations. Think glorious patchworked parkas mixed with camouflage separates, chunky Donegal sweaters, and cool-looking cargos in overdyed fabrics.

The clothes have a lived-in quality – and looking at the lookbook, photographed in Eli Russell’s signature theatrical manner – you can almost smell the sweat and adrenaline that these garments are flavored with.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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