Scuba-Chic. Rabanne SS26

October 17, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Similarly to Dries Van Noten‘s Julian Klausner and the Proenza boys at Loewe, Rabanne’s Julien Dossena was mentally by the beach this season, surrounded by surfers in spirit. His collection, however, felt among the most intriguing – especially in its brilliant menswear. There weren’t many looks, but each one, styled with scuba-diving pants, oversized flip-flops, and vintage Hawaiian-print shirts, exuded an undeniably cool attitude. The metallic flower necklaces – a nod to Paco Rabanne’s conceptual use of metal – added an especially striking touch. The interest in scuba style recalled Nicolas Ghesquière’s now-cult-classic Balenciaga collection from 2003. Dossena, who worked with Ghesquière for years, had the Louis Vuitton creative director cheering him on from the front row. As for womenswear, Julien played with 1950s pin-up references, making skirts fuller, florals bolder, and colors flashier. His use of exaggerated belt buckles gave the collection a tongue-in-cheek energy.

ED’s SELECTION:

RABANNE Lace-trimmed Chainmail Midi Skirt

RABANNE Chain-embellished Paisley-print Crepe Maxi Dress

RABANNE Paillette-embellished Twill Shoulder Bag

RABANNE Cropped Scalloped Stretch-lace Top

RABANNE Gathered Striped Wool-blend Midi Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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High Voltage. Tom Ford SS26

October 2, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

A collection I can wholeheartedly call this season’s standout favorite: Haider Ackermann’s Tom Ford, now in his second season. His debut last March electrified the industry – this time, he doubled the voltage. It was white-hot, feral-level good. The sensuality, the technique, the cuts, the sheer aura of seduction… and yet, it all felt otherworldly, as if an alien civilization had landed in the midst of Paris Fashion Week. Honestly, I want to be abducted.

There wasn’t a single filler in this collection – only killers: decadent robe-coats, razor-sharp tailoring, and flawless eveningwear in the most sublime shades of cobalt, orange, and emerald. What struck me most was how brilliantly Haider acknowledged Tom Ford’s legacy without ever being literal: a black leather suit, a languid beige column dress, jockstraps peeking from beneath trousers, plunging necklines – intoxicating in the best possible way.

And then came the unmistakable Haider touch: one male model in an ivory sweater tied around his neck like a scarf (just as the designer himself wears), paired with a matching oversized shirt, tailored wide-leg pants, and thong-thin flip-flops. The collision of Ackermann and Ford feels like one of the greatest gifts fashion has ever received.

ED’s SELECTION:

TOM FORD Eva D’orsay Satin Pumps

TOM FORD Asymmetric Crepe-jersey Gown

TOM FORD Sequin-embellished Wool-blend Blazer

TOM FORD Belted Draped Silk-satin Maxi Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Polarizing. Versace SS26

September 27, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

The fashion industry hasn’t witnessed such a polarizing collection – especially a debut – in quite some time. After Dario Vitale’s late-evening show for Versace yesterday, my DMs were ablaze until morning with radically different opinions. Some people loved it, calling it a startlingly fresh moment for Milan. Others, however, had no mercy for Vitale’s effort. Personally, I would love to hear Donatella Versace’s thoughts. Her complete absence from the show was… loud.

What is Versace without a Versace at the helm? Dario Vitale, formerly of Miu Miu, has a tough nut to crack. One thing is certain: his debut collection was confident. Gone are the days of Donatella’s flawless blondes in sky-high stilettos. In their place comes a sexuality aimed at younger clients – brisker, messier, slouchier, a bit more kinker. At moments, I felt I was watching a very dolled-up Magliano show – which would be head-turning if it were, in fact, Magliano. But is Versace truly ready to dive headlong into such vintage-heavy territory, straight into the 1980s without a filter? Donatella herself tried many times to revive Versus Versace with near 1:1 references to the brand’s past, and those “new” takes on the diffusion line never succeeded. Many of Vitale’s looks could easily have been sourced from a vintage boutique in Rome or Florence, allowing one to cosplay Gianni’s early career days head to toe. On one hand, the collection was about sensuality (“Honcho”-style in case of menswear, which was executed far better than womenswear, with a homo-erotic gaze) and youth; on the other, it smelled faintly of a mothballed closet. Yet the truth is: today’s “contemporary” audience is deeply nostalgic. Maybe this is what they want – rather than Phoebe Philo or Prada, two female-led brands that actually look forward.

It will be fascinating to see where Vitale takes Versace in the coming seasons – those choices will be decisive. For now, what I see is a cry for the past, one that also eclipses Alessandro Michele’s Valentino. The difference? With Michele, you know it’s his style through and through – not a costume.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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2005. Burberry SS26

September 24, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Unpopular opinion: Daniel Lee’s spring collection for Burberry was actually pretty good. It felt very London circa 2005 – but not in a wannabe Y2K way; more in an Arctic Monkeys–cool kind of way. I can totally picture Alex Turner wearing one of those acidic-green leather trench coats or killer-pink bombers. Lee really delivered on outerwear this season, and the same goes for accessories – the chunky, elongated scarves look great and fun. Overall, he seems to have a stronger hand in menswear than in womenswear, and that’s probably where a lot of the online criticism has sparked. The crochet dresses à la Mary Quant felt too Topshop. Reportedly, Burberry is lowering its prices to better fit the market, but that doesn’t mean the brand should start veering toward a high-street aesthetic.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Soft Launch. Gucci SS26

September 23, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Unfortunately, Demna’s soft launch at Gucci didn’t feel like the vitamin C boost I was hoping for as I’m fighting the traditional, September flu. Yesterday, I watched influencers and insiders bend over backwards to intellectualize and extract meaning from the former Balenciaga designer’s debut at the Italian, Kering-owned brand. The result? A soulless lookbook shot by Catherine Opie, awkwardly photoshopped into tacky frames (as one of my followers aptly noted, it gives serious Anna Dello Russo 2010 vibes). The clothes – Tom Ford-esque leathers, diva gowns, fur coats, silks in ‘Flora’ print – will be available in select Gucci boutiques next week. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.