Gypsy Life. No21 SS16

September 27, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Care-free. Comfortable. These are the words that can easily describe Alessandro Dell Acqua‘s No21 spring-summer 2016 collection. With George Michael’s moody tune playing during the fashion show, the models of the moment – Lineisy Montero, Molly Bair, Stella Lucia – wore long, silk dresses in delicate cigarette prints. The romantic colour palette was broken by gypsy-esque florals and modernist stripes. Also, the collection was plenty of the season’s favourite bias-cut slip dresses thrown over t-shirts – this gave the entire collection a very easy attitude, and the socks styled with sheer skirts were a throwback to #normcore. These clothes will definitely hit the stores with success, just like the statement tasseled, raffia sandals. These will be truly popular next season, as they are instant favourites of street-style stars. Also, it is worth to note that within the new season, No21 starts a new eyewear business. The first silhouettes are circular, simple and very comfortable. I must admit, that season after season, Alessandro builds his fashion identity with amazing speed – this collection can be called as the best one to date. And no wonder why. It is really good.

Made in Italy. Gucci SS16

September 27, 2015January 20, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Breaking down Gucci‘s recent spring-summer 2016 collection is like reinterpreting every painting in a museum. Each look is totally different. And each has its own woman and story behind it. Seeing how Alessandro Michele revamps the house after Tom Ford’s over-sexualised female and Frida Giannini’s perfect ladies is really gripping. For his first summer season, Michele made embroidery his first privilege. Hundreds of embroidered, tiny sequins created cartoonish trompe l’oeil bows, frills and collars. One look with a bra and skirt was entirely constructed in this style – and if you are an observant person, you could notice adorable lady-bugs embellished on ties and parrots over-laying lace shirts. There is no better way to experience the craftsmanship of Alessandro’s vision as to see the newly renovated Gucci boutique on Via Montenapoleone. Here, you can touch the clothes from both autumn-winter 2015 and resort 2016 collections – each piece is absolutely different. A hand-embroidered bird on mink-coat lining; velvet flowers decorate the head-pieces; the tudor-esque rings are all about the phrase “the devil is in the details”. I totally agree with that in terms of Michele’s Gucci, and Italian fashion in overall.

The new designer of Gucci tipped his toes in Italian fashion history for this season – there were references to early Missoni’s lurex zig-zags and the bold 70’s of Italy. Michele said he has been thinking about the Renaissance and the 1970s specifically – both great eras for Italy in their own ways. Although this very bright collection was all about femininity (the ruffled dresses, the flower pussy-bows), it had a lot to do with punk. Biker jackets (of course, embroidered with roses), spiked killer-heels and sharp and mini-skirts were there too, during the fashion show. Gucci by Alessandro Michele is generally called “vintage” or “nostalgic“. But the designer totally disagrees with these two words. “It’s a big trip! Of course I am interested in personal style and quirkiness. There are things here that look vintage, but don’t really exist as vintage—it’s the illusion of it. I’m not nostalgic! I’d like to shake it up again.”

You can love or hate the new Gucci. Spring-summer 2016 might look too bold for some, if you look at the collection through thumbnails – however, one thing’s sure for both of the sides. The attention paid to the detail was missed for a long time in ready-to-wear seasons, just like the real splendour and beauty of Italian craftsmanship. And Alessandro Michele is pioneering it once again in 2015.

En Route. Stella Jean SS16

September 26, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ave Cesaria by Stromae started to beat from the speakers. The ultra-modern venue of newly opened MUDEC Museum striked all the guests. Just like the absolutely unexpected collection delivered by Stella Jean, Creole fashion designer who is the most bold and ethical-fashion thinking person in Milan. Stella Jean’s spring-summer 2016 collection marks the geographical and emotional map on which the main stages of Italian migrant identity are charted. And that’s not all. South America, North America, Africa and Europe are the destinations, that the Stella Jean woman reaches. As the show-note said, “the port of departure, so to speak, is Italy, represented by its sharp, sartorial qualities” – comfortable, wearable silhouettes were visible in over-sized pants and Euro-sleekness of polo shirts. Then, the journey continues, and Stella takes us to Brazil, full of raffia ruffles and Cariocan multi-coloured flounces. The imaginary “travel” itinerary is ready for the next place – the Andes, represented by artisanal and hand-painted motifs including pinatas, daily life of women wearing traditional bowler hats and striped tunics which reflected Andean style.

The ethnical beauty of the collection is contrasted by American varsity jackets and over-sized cowboy shirts, while trench coats and men’s formal striped shirts made a sign of London’s well-known Savile Row needle. However, it is worth to note that some of the fabrics were hand-made in Burkina Faso. Stella Jean and her SS16’s flowing dresses, boxy jackets and “amphora-like” skirts not only made a strong impression, but also felt very right for the current, migration conflict. The collection was like a melting-point of cultures, filled with beauty and creative freedom. Also, it proves that fashion can be politically important.

Men’s – The Boys. No21 SS16

June 22, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

“I took a big risk, breaking the mold I have created myself,” Alessandro Dell’Acqua of No21 said. “It was time, I think. Freedom was high on my agenda. I’d like to convey a clear message of fashion as an amusing expression of personality. We can do that in Milano, too.” Indeed, the new collection for men was totally different than all the others up to date. Totally new silhouettes – shorts which reminded skirts; over-sized knitwears (which, basically, land on my wish-list); great varsity jackets and elegant peacoats. The textures here became more tactile and softer. And the ultra-long t-shirts and tank-tops gave us a chilled out vibe, just like the boots, which had their laces tied in a messy way.

In reality, every piece of this collection is totally wearable – I already see a lot of outfits that would personally match my wardrobe. Also, through this collection, Alessanro proved again, that he is a styling genius. You can simply take notes for your next summer look, guys!

The Fusion of Stella Jean

March 23, 2015March 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Stella Jean fuses ethnical influences with daily silhouettes like no other. She keeps the right balance between wearable kitsch and oriental hand-made craftsmenship – warm wool chunky knits embroidered with Hindu jewels; beige A-shaped skirt with hand-painted illustrations; kimono wool cut and made in Tibet; silk pajamas with cozy prints of Taj Mahal. For AW15 Stella, together with Ethical Fashion Group, debuted bags – made in ethical way in India from papier mache. Although this might sound a bit crazy, but the bags are really good in it’s design and durability. If talking of the jewellery, it exudes with tropical heat,

In Milan, Stella Jean is strongly valued not only by the store buyers, but also by women which really wear her absolutely fantastic designs for casual occasions. Re-seeing the clothes after the Milan Fashion Week was a real pleasure of mine! Here are more photos taken by me.