Perversely Chic. Miu Miu AW23

Miu Miu shut down Paris Fashion Week with a bang. Or even the entire season! This was a remarkable collection that felt desirable and intriguing, sexy and perversely chic, absolutely timeless and completely relevant. Miuccia Prada (with Lotta Volkova’s brilliant styling support) satisfied all the possible needs of a Miu Miu girl-slash-woman. The show was opened by the modern-day indie-film leading-actress Mia Goth, who wore a prim grey cardigan and polka-dot-printed skirt, all ladylike in kitten-heel sling-backs and a matching handbag draped over her arm. Her hair was kind of messy, and her tights were pulled up over her top. That’s the look that will define this season in fashion. To a frantic jazz soundtrack, other models wore ensembles that had a sense of spontaneous, impulsive layering and romantic urgency. Prada wrapped an infectious sentiment of youth into a Miu Miu collection that read like the ultimate shopping list for the autumn 2023 wardrobe. Emma Corrin’s finale look – a beige turtleneck and heavily embellished, gold panties – represented the candid, youthful, independent persona Miuccia Prada is creating for. The message was reinforced by the genderless philosophy Prada has been introducing at Miu Miu by way of male casting. With its ironic sense of humor, the Miu Miu collection uplifted its audience, because it cut a contrast to a season that’s reflected a less uplifting reality. With that in mind, the reduced Miu Miu silhouette and quiet colors also evoked a wartime sensibility. “A little serious,” Prada said. “I like to embrace that in this moment. Maybe I’m too careful about what’s happening around us, but I can’t leave fashion like some place of nonsense. There’s some excitement and sexiness there,” she paused. “But basically, I think we have to dress for thinking. And for starting fresh.” Oui, oui, oui!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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