Deja Vu. Valentino Resort 2025

It’s a new dawn for Valentino. Gone are the days of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s minimalist sensibility and sharpness of cut. Alessandro Michele’s “surprise” debut collection for resort 2025 is an unabashed return to Valentino Garavani’s 1960s and 1970s opulence and over-the-topness. Is this nostalgia something people really want in 2024? Many wrongfully described the collection as “so Gucci”. The deja vu feeling is valid, but rather it’s “so Alessandro Michele”. But let’s be honest, this line-up could easily pass as any of Michele’s previous collections for the other Italian brand, and you’re really not the only one constantly mistyping Gucci instead of Valentino. More than 170 looks, none really memorable or distinct, is either a result of Michele’s prolificness or his overt maximalism – something I thought he would rethink and refine during his hiatus. When the designer arrived at Gucci, his debut collection – contrived at light speed pace – was a revolution-in-the-making and it shifted the way people dress for seasons ahead. His Valentino debut lacks that radicalness, and feels like a missed opportunity in making a strong point. The dense, thick retromania of this collection makes one feel simply tired. 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

NET-A-PORTER Limited

Men’s – Youthful Optimism. Prada SS25

After a couple of seasons dedicated to tackling problems of our contemporary times, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons maybe aren’t in an entirely optimistic mood, but they are hopeful for the future – and the young generation. The spring-summer 2025 menswear Prada collection was dedicated to the feeling of “just going” with your guts when you’re young and not overthinking it too much. That was reflected in the seemingly pre-loved clothes, crumpled and creased, mismatched and cropped as if a couple of sizes too small. Simons explained: “There are elements that are female, masculine, coming from mom, dad, grandad, grandmother. Maybe things from your memories… and fantasy!”, interjected Prada. Although the designers didn’t want their new season effects look too constricted or contrived, it a bit was the case with the Lego-colored boiler suits (Simons just can’t help but return to them. Maybe he will get it right one day?). But there were also pieces in this collection that truly feel investment-worthy: pony-hair black coat with short sleeves, tops illustrated with graphic artworks by Bernard Buffet, cool wind-jackets in rave tones, slinky cardigans. The first look’s blonde-haired model who opened the door of the show venue’s toy-ish, white house wore a very Milan-coded outfit: a thin, v-neck navy sweater, sartorially-elegant grey pants with pleats and a pair of vintage-y sneakers. How Prada!

Need a Prada wardrobe fix?

ED’s SELECTION:


Men’s Saffiano Leather Logo Triangle Crossbody Bag



Men’s Denim Trucker Jacket



Men’s Silk Bermuda Shorts



Men’s Silk-Cotton Sweater



Men’s Show Nylon Bomber Jacket



Men’s Gingham Poplin Sport Shirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

NET-A-PORTER Limited

Cramped Beauty. Magliano SS25

Magliano is the much-needed antidote to Milan Fashion Week’s gloss and perfectionism. LVMH Prize-winning Luca Magliano does clothes that are functional but at the same time poetically deep. The designer channels a kind of wrong and cramped beauty. In his charming spring-summer 2025 fashion shows, street-casted models sported romantic shirts with asymmetrical closures and folded trousers revealing waistline measurements. Printed, washed denim and faux fading, along with well-worn peacoats in towel-like fabrics, add a touch of artisanship to the offer. Note the striking pops of bubblegum pink, just to balance all that grittiness. The collection is honest in its simplicity, driving expertise through unexpected materials and retro silhouettes pulled into the present with precision.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

NET-A-PORTER Limited

Men’s – Life’s A Journey. Moschino SS25

Life is an unexpected journey: that’s the morale conveyed by Adrian Appiolaza‘s first menswear show for Moschino. Before he left Argentina for Europe, the designer once held down a job selling insurance. To present a respectable façade to potential clients, his employer obliged him to wear a company-provided suit. He felt like a prisoner of that ill-fitting, sad suit. That formative trauma collided with something once said by Franco Moschino himself: “it’s better to dress as you wish than as you should.” Appiolaza began his spring-summer 2025 story of resilience and traveling through life with ironic takes on corporate attire. A shirt skirt worn with a real shirt but unreal suspenders and a four-button suit teamed with three hats were amongst the first of many cheeky, archival references. The soccer-ball sweater teamed with a tri-starred baseball cap was a salute back to Argentina, while the Italian flag soccer couple – one with an authentic red sauce splattering! – was a gesture to Appiolaza’s new creative home. Franco Moschino’s recurring goose motif returned in prints on skirts and shirting in a hokey, bucolic countrywear duet. The closing looks reminisced something accidental lovers would wear – and get married in – on a nameless island after a ship wreck. The all-white heavy linen suit with a sleeve skirt is a fresh take on groomswear. The models walked their finale around piles of lost luggage that symbolized the tangle of transformational journey narratives. This designer is really on to something with his vision for Moschino.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

NET-A-PORTER Limited

Experimentation Mode. Jil Sander AW24

Lucie and Luke Meier are in their experimentation mode at Jil Sander. Gone are the days when their vision of the brand orbited around the idea of minimalism in its traditional, Sander-esque sense. Trying new things is crucial in order to develop and progress your style. But I’m not entirely share the antiquated space-age aesthetic the designers went for their autumn-winter 2024 collection is necessarily a breakthrough. They leaned too much on the diamond quilting, which if overdosed can feel utterly outdated, and the chainmail details are Paco Rabanne’s territory, especially when we’re talking about 1960s sensitivity. As Cathy Horyn wrote in her review, the collection gave “tragically old lady” vibes, and its hard to disagree.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

NET-A-PORTER Limited