En Route. Stella Jean SS16

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Ave Cesaria by Stromae started to beat from the speakers. The ultra-modern venue of newly opened MUDEC Museum striked all the guests. Just like the absolutely unexpected collection delivered by Stella Jean, Creole fashion designer who is the most bold and ethical-fashion thinking person in Milan. Stella Jean’s spring-summer 2016 collection marks the geographical and emotional map on which the main stages of Italian migrant identity are charted. And that’s not all. South America, North America, Africa and Europe are the destinations, that the Stella Jean woman reaches. As the show-note said, “the port of departure, so to speak, is Italy, represented by its sharp, sartorial qualities” – comfortable, wearable silhouettes were visible in over-sized pants and Euro-sleekness of polo shirts. Then, the journey continues, and Stella takes us to Brazil, full of raffia ruffles and Cariocan multi-coloured flounces. The imaginary “travel” itinerary is ready for the next place – the Andes, represented by artisanal and hand-painted motifs including pinatas, daily life of women wearing traditional bowler hats and striped tunics which reflected Andean style.

The ethnical beauty of the collection is contrasted by American varsity jackets and over-sized cowboy shirts, while trench coats and men’s formal striped shirts made a sign of London’s well-known Savile Row needle. However, it is worth to note that some of the fabrics were hand-made in Burkina Faso. Stella Jean and her SS16’s flowing dresses, boxy jackets and “amphora-like” skirts not only made a strong impression, but also felt very right for the current, migration conflict. The collection was like a melting-point of cultures, filled with beauty and creative freedom. Also, it proves that fashion can be politically important.

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Boom-Boom. Fausto Puglisi SS14

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When Karolina Kurkova opens a show of a young designer, that means that a real talent is nurturing into something much more bigger… Fausto Puglisi, the designer of the moment from Milan, known for checked varsity jackets and gold ornamented skirts, this season had his first ever runway show. For SS14, Fausto not only showed his clothes have their own rock ‘n roll aestethics, but also are very feminine. We could see a Carolina Herrera mixed with Axel Rose in these amazing looks- a maxi blue dress with beautifully embroidered palms tapped with a leather biker jacket. Not only this collections had balls, but it looked real cool and great for Summer strolling somewhere at the Palm Springs… The fav designer of Coco Rocha, is now stealing the spotlight from a bit dusty Milan Fashion Week, but just ended today. Now we head to… Paris!

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Rome. Dolce & Gabbana SS14

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The Dolce & Gabbana SS14 collection was like fall of Roman Empire. In other words, it was a fail. Although the collection was pretty, the effect was poor. Flower embroidery mixed with a Ancient Roman temple print? Wow, suuuper impressive. Polka dots a la Monica Belluci and black lace? Hmm. Possibly Dolce is getting out of ideas (however checking their Instagram you can’t say that they have a crisis in creativity and finances…) and it goes totally on a easy route with the Italian city theme every season… But, can you imagine Dolce & Gabbana with laser cuts and some out of this world skinny jeans and checked shirts? Nope. D&G will be always D&G. And you may like it or not.

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Nature. Marni SS14

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Marni SS14 wasn’t just about lazy prints and funny jewellery. The Milanese label known for it’s minimalistic approach, this season shocked with some seriously amazing flower embroidery! That was one beautiful coat, in reddish shades, that looked like a flowerbomb. Marni too thought of Summer comfortability- hats, sunglasses and light top for every occasion. The whole collection was kept in one simple colour- the salmon pink/creme pink that made everything look so easy and affordable!

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30 Years! Moschino SS14

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That wasn’t just another colourful season for Rosellini Jardini at Moschino. As Franco Moschino asked 30 years ago “What is fashion?”, now the current designer of stated the same question for the 30th Anniversary collection of Moschino! Wow, that is a real tripled milestone for a label like that! From that occasion, Jardini prepared an amazing collection presented on her beautiful Milanese friends and favourite models that wasn’t about new hearts, checks and smiles. It was a collection made of archive’s biggest Moschino hits- the shopping bag dress, chain jacket, cow dress and teddy bear hat! The mix of that was much better than usual Moschino collection. I felt my fashion memories were refreshed! Possibly, the full collection, like for example my fav shopping bag dress, will surely not arrive in stores, but this swimming suit would be surely a bestseller. People like “limited edition” stuff!

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