Milan

Men’s – Androginity. Gucci AW15

| Design & Culture by Ed

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Gucci is under big change. Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s head accessories designer, is now the creative director (which is still under question mark…). After a quick departure of Frida Gianini from the house, the new designing team had to change everything – the setting, the bags, shoes and… Gucci. I mean, Gucci’s image which was created by Frida for 8 years. And the effect is very edgy… androgynous models, gender-mixing pants, satin shirts, flannel shirts with pussy bows (for men) and lace tops are just few of the most shocking and outstanding pieces of the whole collection. Even the classical jet-set loafers were filled with fur! Nobody’s sure how the collection is going to be welcomed in the stores, but… I am still under the state of bewilderment.

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Men’s – Thought Provoking. Prada AW15

| Design & Culture by Ed

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Back to 90’s? Back to  ugliness and uniforms? Prada says so in her recent AW15 collection for men and pre-fall 2015 for women. Kept in black, grey and beige colour palette only, Miuccia Prada made it a bit dull and very melancholic. Every men’s piece seems to be same. Suits, shirts, shoes, bags. The hair also seems to be super common for office-guys who do paper work and this type of stuff. While the girls seem to be as boring as their dates. The only thing that caught the eye was the hair – “A bow wraps a present,” Miuccia mused. “Am I presenting woman as object?” Well, hopefully not. And if talking of the shoes – that’s a horror, in my opinion. A comeback to Aqua World? They seem to be so anti-attractive. As I usually find something amusing and beautiful in Prada’s collections, this time I just can’t.

But one thing’s sure: the shared aesthetic this time was simple. “Uniform, severe, elegant: This is the fashion I like at this moment.” Miuccia seems to be down with her mood. Well, who wouldn’t after this what happened lately in Paris? Now it’s your turn to interpret this collection.

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Men’s – Casual Days. Bally AW15

| Design & Culture by Ed

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Wow, Bally amazed me. Under designer Pablo Coppola, the Swiss nation’s most famous brand—a 164-year-old shoe manufacturer—is loosening up into something pretty appealing. For his second official menswear season at Bally, Coppola did justice to his surname by turning to cinema for inspiration: “a lot of Wes Anderson, and specifically The Royal Tenenbaums,” he said. That’s visible – the yellow ostrich leather coats and accessorice feel so refreshing and edgy… but at the same time casual. And, Coppola showed the perfect suit I would wear everyday – the beige combo of blazer and tailored pants, styled with a beanie and sneakers.

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Rochas / Advent 2014

| Design & Culture by Ed

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December 22: Alessandro Dell’Acqua had a busy and fruity year- he made his own label, N.21, the tt-label of every Milan women, and re-invented Rochas, the old couture brand from Paris. He brought chic, beautiful embellishments and fresh silhouettes to the house, creating a wardrobe for lady-like, bold characters. Rochas is not only a go-to for New Year Eve, but for every other event.