Military Rococo. No.21 SS15

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Allesandro Dell’Acqua presented a new fashion genre: military rococo. It’s deeply Italian- embroideries, surrealism, opulence- but also strictly casual (checks and waist belts). And it’s seriously lovely! For summer, No.21 presented an avant-garde fusion of ready-to-wear clothing and alta moda embellishments on skirts and shirts. There was also something punk about the collections, Crop tos had  strong Scottish checks on them, and were cooly embroidered with crystals… and the shoes were all about Salvador Dali to me. The exagerrated ribbon had funny eyes attched to them, making the feet look pretty different. But that’s only a good thing.

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The 70’s. Gucci SS15

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Frida Gianini re-visted the 70’s for summer, making the collection boheme and luxury. Fur, velvet, jeans, logo- all of that was present, with lots of embroideries and gorgeous handkerchiefs tied around model’s necks. Oh, and if you have an old, Jackie Gucci bag which you don’t wear because of the logo or the “luxurious” brownish colour, then it’s it time to shine again! This bag with the Gucci striped handle is having it’s comeback. The collection itself isn’t kind of mind-blowing. It’s good, it brings luxury and Gucci legacy back to it’s roots. It’s basically Gucci.

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Italian Summer. Stella Jean SS15

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Aah, those Italian summers, where you simply swim the pool, sunbathe with a favourite book and visit those small, cozy villages… Stella Jean, the designer coming from Hawaii, which is based in Milan, really brought the Mediterrean sun to all of us in her latest collection for summer. The emerging star of MFW brings up odd silhouttes of her signature, strongly printed skirts and over-sized t-shirts, giving us the heat of Sardinia in one of the capes and beauty of Corsica in another dress. With the prints painted on the clothes, the collection feels very Stella Jean and very, very appropriate for hot summer! Instantly in love!

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Men’s: Sailor. Gucci SS15

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This look above is the outfit that killed all the others for SS15. Clement Chabernaud wears a over-sized, striped pajama like shirt, paint marked boyfriend jeans and the classical, Gucci loafers. What to need more for summer? This gorgeous collection delivered by Frida Gianini for us yesterday is one of the best Gucci men ever had! Ticking all the nautical boxes and yet deftly managing to rise above costume party clichés, the tailoring-led collection featured boating jackets – contrast piping adorning collars and sleeves – gold anchor-stamped buttons and pristine white ankle grazers. Bravo!

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Men’s: Jokes on Classic. Prada SS15

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So, what did Prada serve us this time for her men’s SS15 and women’s Resort’15? Something you would probably not think of: a pool. In the middle of the show venue, we had a 90 deegree rectangular swimming pool filled with water. A pretty perfect mood for summer, isn’t it? But all the spark was in the fashion that was presented. “I interpreted the classics. It means everything and nothing. It means what looks good for me” said Miuccia Prada backstage, meaning that for menswear, she always can do what she likes most, while for womenswear, “we always have to push, push, push.” I totally agree with her in that fact – the men’s clothes were a fresh, updated version of her 70’s ugly-chic uniforms and the sandals had this Prada mood written all over it. “It’s kind of conservative. Conservative looks more new” Miuccia added. Utah boys visiting the concrete jungle, embroidered top-stitched everything, brown leather-detailed denim and cashmere versions of charity shop knits… it all felt old, but new in a way it was a bit forgotten by people. But as it sounds typically, nothing is really normal at Prada. The exagarated stitches are just the prove! You see them everyday on your denim, but here, Prada made them in the spotlight. If coming back to the pool, there was also an irony about it. Surrounded on all sides by bleachers covered in dodgy golden-brown carpet (only Miuccia would pair that with a glittering pool) that extended to a raised runway on the water, it was a Miuccia-style take on an old summertime chestnut. “It was a joke on what’s classic,” she commented after the show. So, was that just another show? No, it was a very Prada show.

About the artist: Israeli sculptor. He adopted the name Absalon on his arrival in Paris in the late 1980s. During his short career he achieved widespread recognition for the 1:1 scale architectural models that he constructed of idealised living units. These wooden models, painted white, demonstrate an obsession with order, arrangement and containment, and have associations both of protective shelters and monastic cells.

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