Jil Sander once again without Jil Sander, looks great. Just like it was with Raf Simons, and now, with Jil’s studio. The fresh perfection was presented: 50 shades of grey on coats, trousers, down to earth dresses. Jeweled dresses and flattering skirts were also here. But the highlight (and most buzzed thing on social medias yesterday) were the yellow brogues- they looked so… remarkable within all that grey. Seeing what the studio learnt from the master, now the question exists- who is going to be the new designer of this minimalistic fashion empire?
Milan
Iconic. Tod’s AW14
Tod’s is in the process of rebirth with it’s new creative director Alessandra Facchinetti. Not only it does clothes- but it really looks good. The AW14 was inspired with iconic film stars and their attitude- a lot of hats, burgundy shade and geometrical patterns were seen here. What’s more- this luxury good label also showed pieces made out of special Tod’s leather that is used in their loafers- the capes in pastel blues, coats and dresses all looked slightly wet thanks to that effect! Tod’s again got a bright future with it’s new designer…
Modern Woman. Sportmax AW14
Sportmax, the emerging Milanese label creates clothes for modern women- they are comfortable, luxury and a bit artsy. Their AW14 collection which slightly reminds me of Reed Krakoff and Celine, is nothing else, than the WHOLE wardrobe of the modern woman. The fur coats, the boots, the dresses and all that python leather fever…. It’s not romantic or rebellious- it’s just what every woman loves to wear! And I fell in love with all that collage pattern… Abstractive?
Remix. Prada AW14
The Prada AW14 collection was a real example of avant-garde fashion. With Barbara Sukova’s life performance accompanied by real orchestra as a show tune, collection was presented in a dark Milanese garage… And, possibly, that was one of the most wearable collections for season at Prada. The colour palette and prints shouting loud 30’s & 70’s, amazing monkey fur dress which looked like a ‘body, chained shoulder bags, architectonic heels and heavy sweaters worn over flawless sheer skirts look fantastic. Miuccia Prada is on the concept of timeless, but artsy clothing, that will never be out of fashion. In reality, these clothes will always look good and luxury! Opposing the colourful SS14, this collection in result became a little bit more toned, darker. But coming back to basics is never a bad idea. And if it is Miuccia who “rules the rules”- then nobody can say “no”.
Karlito. Fendi AW14
Little KARLITO and Fendi Dromes where the show’s biggest affairs. First of all, KARLITO is a small Karl muppet made out of fur, and since next season you will wear it everywhere, just like Cara Delevigne on the runway. Fendi Dromes were… well, something, that was meant to be cool. It was flying around during the show, live-streaming the event on Fendi web-site. Woow… Talking of the collection, it was nice, but no craze about it. Fur, brown colour palette, fur, flattering skirts and orchidees (were they real?!). Surely nothing spectacular, but a lot of pieces are a WANT. For example the parka with furry elements or the boots that were rocked by Joan Smalls. 
Design & Culture by Ed 